Pearls change how a chain reads, so check the clasp and the pearl surface before anything else. Turn each piece under a window: the coating should be even, with no flaking at the drill holes.

The Water Drop necklace is the one I would pick for a wedding: a strand of round white pearls with a crystal cluster and a pearl drop. The gold chain with a crystal butterfly and a pearl drop is lighter and prettier on a plain shirt. The Knot Bow necklace carries a crystal-set bow and a large pearl drop, so I would wear it with a neat black dress. The 1980s flower and clover necklace has a twisted rope chain with a central pearl, and it looks right with a crisp white blouse.

The oval pearl pendant ringed in crystals and the curb-link chain with an oval pearl are more formal, almost brooch-like at the collarbone. The fine chain with tiny pearl stations and a small CD logo is the easy one for daily wear. The pearl choker with a turquoise cabochon is the one I would keep for a night out.

Measure against your collarbone, because lengths here run from about 15 to 17 inches. What I would skip: a long coat with a heavy collar, since crystals catch on wool and tangle.

A choker needs a good fit more than a good outfit, so try the clasp at your neck and check that the chain lies flat. Move your head side to side and see whether the plate stays centered.

The silver chain choker with block DIOR letters is the sharpest piece here, and I would wear it over a black turtleneck or a bare shoulder. The black leather choker with silver J'ADORE lettering and a butterfly charm is the playful one for jeans and a white tee. The flat gold mesh choker with a rhinestone rose clasp reads as vintage evening wear, and the Danseuse Etoile choker is a gold curb chain with a CD plate that sits clean against a plain neckline.

The longer pieces are easier. The vintage gold twist chain with an interlocked CD pendant is the one I would reach for first, and the link chain with rhinestone stations is a little more sparkly. The round pendant with crystal-set Dior script on a braided chain is the most detailed. The silver ribbon bow bar with a small heart charm is the sweet one.

Before you buy, look closely at the condition grade, the plating on edges and the stones, and ask for the authentication details. What I would skip: any piece with loose stones in the setting, since those get worse with wear.

I would pick one logo pendant, one pearl piece and one choker, and I would not pick more. Begin with the chain you will wear most, then add the dressier one.

Check the grade, the clasp, the stones and the proof of authenticity, in that order. A small flaw on a vintage piece is fine, but a weak clasp is not. Victoire de Castellane liked that fine and costume jewelry could look alike, and a good second-hand Dior necklace plays the same trick.

Wear it the day it arrives, in front of a mirror, with the outfit you meant it for. If it still makes you smile, keep it. De Castellane started on costume jewelry, after all, so I see no shame in a bit of play. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together Chanel Boots and Chanel Earrings.