I am suspicious of jewelry that is only decoration, so Eddie Borgo won me over quickly. He started experimenting with adornment at university, making one off pieces long before anyone asked him to, and in 2008 he launched his namesake collection in New York. His studio story points to symbolism, modern art and architecture, and I can see all three in pieces that feel like small, deliberate structures. I went deeper on a related idea in MEGA Jewelry: The Pieces Worth the Price. I went deeper on a related idea in SHASHI Jewelry: Pieces Worth the Price.

New York is part of the label's vocabulary. Borgo has made jewelry for the runways of Burberry, Max Mara, Proenza Schouler and Altuzarra, and he later worked with Tiffany & Co. on a collection shaped around Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney. In 2011 he won the CFDA/Swarovski Award for Innovation in Accessory Design, and in 2025 he brought his fashion and fine jewelry sides back together under his own name.

What draws me in is the balance of rigorous form and playful color: a twist, a disc, a sphere or a clean collar. Even a small piece gets a point of view, and that is the thread I follow through the earrings, bracelets and rings here.

This is the part of Borgo I find closest to his architectural side, scaled down to something you can wear on a Tuesday. The Discus Drop Earrings and Beaded Sphere Teardrop Earrings bring round shapes and movement, while the Pavé Lenox Collar Necklace draws a cleaner line around the neck. I would let one of them lead, then use the Torsade Band Ring or Torsade Stud Earrings as a smaller echo instead of stacking every shape at once.

Picture her at dinner in a crisp white shirt, the Marcy Necklace or Long Marcy Necklace resting at the collar and the Callie Cuff Bracelet adding a little weight at the wrist. Amber, jade and carnelian tones in several pieces give a neutral outfit one point of color. What I would skip: wearing necklace and earrings both as the star. With sculptural forms, empty space is part of the styling.

Eddie Borgo's work lives on a useful tension: the forms are crisp and constructed, but the wearer decides whether they read as bold or restrained. I would not try to match a full set. I would start with one piece that holds a line, like the Slipknot Cuff or the Callie Cuff Bracelet, and let the rest of the outfit stay easy, although I know myself well enough to expect a second piece to follow.