French Autumn, Rohmer Style

French Autumn, Rohmer Style

Camel knits, pleated skirts and a good loafer: the French autumn wardrobe, the way Éric Rohmer's films dress it. Here is how I would put it together for October, without a beret in sight.

Éric Rohmer's Autumn Tale came out in 1998, the last of his Tales of the Four Seasons. It is set during the grape harvest in the Rhône valley, where Magali, a widowed winegrower, is lonely but in no hurry to do anything about it, so her friend Isabelle secretly places a lonely-hearts ad for her. Nobody in the film is dressed to be looked at, which is exactly why everyone looks so good. Inspired by that film, by a vineyard in late afternoon light, and by the smell of wet leaves on a gravel path, this is my French autumn edit. It starts with knitwear in the colors of the harvest: camel, rust and olive. Isabel Marant's Obeline sweater and &daughter's Sligo, both in camel, are the base. DÔEN's Heath henley in brick and Brunello Cucinelli's rust cashmere turtleneck bring the warmth. Arch4's Ariana turtleneck in army green is the olive, and the one I would wear most. Isabel Marant's Naia cardigan, Tibi's red clay V-neck and Polo Ralph Lauren's army green cable cardigan are the layers to throw over your shoulders when the sun drops.

Flat lay of a rust henley, an olive cable cardigan, a camel knit midi skirt, a dark brown studded shoulder bag, a camel sweater, a saddle leather barrel bag, a tan suede shoulder bag and suede loafers and ballet flats on white.
Camel, rust and olive, with the loafers and bags to match.

The skirt is what makes it French rather than simply autumnal. The women in Rohmer's films tend to dress for walking, talking and long lunches, and a midi skirt handles all three. A pleated one moves beautifully. Tibi's sunray pleated skirts come in brown nylon and navy tropical wool, and both swing without clinging. Moncler's brown pleated midi is the same idea in a heavier weight for colder days. If you would rather skip the pleats, Toteme's knitted midi and Max Mara's wool midi are straight and easy, and Nour Hammour's Garnier skirt in brown suede is the one to wear with a camel knit and nothing else. Magda Butrym's gray wool and cashmere midi and Fendi's black bouclé skirt are the city versions, for when the vineyard is a long way off. Keep the hem just below the knee so a flat shoe still looks right, and add a pair of opaque tights once the mornings turn cold.

Flat shoes finish it. A French autumn wardrobe is built for walking, down to the market, across a square, up a hill to the vines, and a heel would only get in the way. Khaite's Miles loafer and Toteme's shearling-lined suede loafer are the pairs I would wear daily, and Anine Bing's Amoc loafer is the easier, more casual option. Gucci's Prima ballet flats and Le Monde Béryl's Luna flats are for days when you want a little less shoe. Carry a shoulder bag that sits close under the arm: Balenciaga's Le City in suede, Chloé's studded Marcie in burgundy, or Cult Gaia's Dahlia in saddle leather. Brown, beige and burgundy all work for the bag, while black would feel too stiff next to camel. What I would skip: the striped top, the beret and the red lip all at once. That is a postcard of France, not how most people there dress on a Tuesday in October.

Our honest take

We think this is the easiest look here to shop from your own closet, because it is mostly things people already own: a camel sweater, a midi skirt, a pair of loafers. Start there before you add anything. If you take one thing away, let it be this: the colors do most of the work. Camel, rust, olive and brown sit together so easily that almost any combination of them looks deliberate. If you want one new piece, make it the knit, since you will wear it every week until March. Skip anything that tries too hard to look French, and any fabric that will not survive a walk in the rain. Rohmer's characters never looked as if they had shopped for the occasion, and that is the whole charm of them.