Into the Cocoon

A cocoon coat curves out from the shoulders and back in at the hem, like an egg. It is roomy enough for a thick sweater underneath and it makes everything you wear with it look intentional, even leggings and a sweatshirt.

The shape is forgiving and very warm, which is why it has replaced the stiff tailored coat for a lot of people.

First the solid colours, then the patterned ones.

Chocolate boiled wool, a rust double breasted style, camel with oversized patch pockets, and plenty of black. Most of these are wool or a wool blend, which holds the round shape far better than polyester.

What I check: the shoulder seam. On a cocoon it should drop well past your own shoulder. If it sits exactly on your shoulder bone you have a regular coat that is just big.

What I would skip: going up a size. The cut already gives you room, and sizing up only buries your hands in the sleeves.

A plaid or check cocoon does the work of an outfit on its own. Wear it over all black and you are done. There is also a leopard funnel neck and a herringbone with a leather belt.

The tell on a good plaid: the pattern lines up across the front and at the pockets.

Pass on short cocoons if you are petite and want to wear them with wide trousers; the proportions get boxy fast. The mid length styles are easier.

Slim underneath is the trick. Straight jeans or leggings, a fine knit and a sleek boot or loafer let the coat be the big shape.