Laura Mercier Foundation and the Flawless Face Philosophy Behind It

Laura Mercier Foundation and the Flawless Face Philosophy Behind It

Laura Mercier foundation comes from a makeup artist who built her brand around skin that looks like skin, only better. The line launched in 1996 around a simple routine of primer, foundation, concealer and powder, and the approach still holds up. These twelve pieces rebuild that flawless face, from foundation and tinted moisturizer to the powder that made the brand famous.

Some beauty brands are built on trends, and some are built on a single point of view that happens to outlast them. Laura Mercier is the second kind. She trained in Paris, worked on shoots in Paris and New York, and became known for skin so polished and believable that photographers needed less retouching. When she launched her own line in 1996 with Janet Gurwitch, it opened with four products: a primer, a foundation, the Secret Camouflage concealer and a translucent powder. She called the method the Flawless Face, and three decades later it still reads as modern. Her Tinted Moisturizer came from noticing, after moving to the United States, how heavily women were hiding their skin under makeup. Laura Mercier foundation today follows the same logic: skin first, coverage only where you need it. It is a philosophy that feels even more current now that heavy, sculpted makeup has fallen out of favor. The first grid is the base, Real Flawless Foundation plus three versions of the tinted moisturizer, dewy, blurred matte and illuminating.

Twelve boxes on a pale grey page, one for each product in this edit, each with its brand and name printed below: Laura Mercier Real Flawless Foundation, Laura Mercier Long-Wear Tinted Moisturizer, Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer, Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer, Laura Mercier Pure Canvas Primer, Laura Mercier Real Flawless Foundation Brush, Laura Mercier Tinted Blur Balm, Laura Mercier Real Flawless Concealer, Laura Mercier Translucent Loose Powder, Laura Mercier Ultra-Blur Pressed Powder, Laura Mercier Velour Puff and Laura Mercier Ultra-Blur Setting Spray.
Flawless face

The steps around the base

The Flawless Face was never about foundation alone, and this grid is the supporting cast. Pure Canvas Primer Illuminating goes on first, which makes sense for a brand that launched with a primer back when few people outside the industry used one. The Real Flawless Foundation Brush is made to pair with the foundation, the Tinted Blur Balm is for days when even a tinted moisturizer feels like too much, and the Real Flawless Concealer handles the spots that need a little more. I apply concealer after the base, not before, so I use far less of it. It is a small order-of-operations trick that makes the whole face look lighter.

A primer, a brush, a balm and a concealer

The powder, and what I would skip

If this brand is famous for one thing, it is the translucent powder, and the last grid is the finish. Translucent Loose Longwear Setting Powder is the one people mean when they talk about the line, the Ultra-Blur pressed version is its talc-free sibling for your bag, the Velour Puff is for pressing it in, and the Ultra-Blur Setting Spray locks everything down. What I would skip is dusting powder over your whole face. Mercier herself says the trick is a small amount only where makeup needs to last longer, which for most people means the T-zone and under the eyes. Press, do not sweep, and leave the high points of the face alone so skin still looks like skin.

Skin, only better

What I love about this brand is that its founder never wanted anyone to look made up. The whole line is built around one idea, that makeup should refine the face rather than disguise it. Start with the foundation or a tinted moisturizer, add concealer only where you need it, and press a little powder where things tend to slide. Thirty years on, that routine still works. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together How I Wear Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush Flawless Foundation, Start to Finish and Laura Mercier Built a Brand on Makeup That Lets Skin Look Like Skin.