Pick up a bucket bag by the handles and let it hang, because the slouch tells you what it will do on your shoulder. The Small Bale bags in brown calfskin, beige calfskin, natural grained calfskin and brick red smooth calfskin are the same shape in four moods, and each has rolled top handles and a strap. The brown and beige go with a camel coat and gray trousers. The brick red is the one I would carry with a navy knit.

The Micro Bale in blue green with sun gold details is the little one. It is a cross-body for a day when you carry a phone, keys and a lip balm, and that is it. The Ghiera Shopper Large in turquoise is an open-top calfskin tote with slim handles, so I would put a laptop in it and wear it to work with a white shirt. The Loom bag L25 in beige is tidier, with a gold chain strap and a structured top handle, and it suits a slip skirt and flats.

Only one piece in this row is pre-owned: the slouchy cream leather tote with the blue interior and silver hardware. It is listed as brand new and unused, with a removable zip pouch inside, so I would still check that the pouch zip runs smoothly and the lining is clean.

What I would skip: a pale calfskin bag if you commute with a wet umbrella and a dark denim jacket. The color can pick up the dye.

Shoulder bags are where the strap matters, so adjust it to your height before you decide. The Extra Bag L27 in whisper white with gold charms and the Extra Bag in cashmere, virgin wool and silk, in sage with tan trim and a padlock charm, are both new and both 27 centimeters wide. The tweedy one is the cozy winter bag, and the white calfskin suits a linen shirt and a pale trench.

The small Extra Pocket L19 in kummel and the larger L27 pouch in blue are new and zip across the top. Carry the kummel one in your hand with a brown suede jacket, and the blue one on a long strap with a navy coat. If you want an older, more worn-in look, the pre-owned pieces are here too. The Mini Milky Way crossbody in cerulean, the My Way crossbody in olive gray and the Medium Cluisee G.Odessa in electric blue are each listed with condition notes. The warm mastic Extra Bag L27 in linen calfskin has antique silver hardware, and it is the one I would wear with everything.

With any pre-owned bag, I would do a short authenticity check. I compare the stitching, hardware and zip with the brand's own pictures, then ask for the condition grade in writing and photos of the base and the strap holes. A good seller will not mind. If a listing is vague, I walk away.

I would start with size, because the L19 and the L27 live very different lives. Pick the L19 if you carry a phone and cards, and the L27 if you want a wallet and sunglasses in there too.

Then decide between new and pre-owned. New gets you a clean lining and the exact color you want. Pre-owned gets you the ostrich, the lizard and the odd colors that are hard to find, as long as you ask for photos and a plain description of the wear.

I would put one soft neutral at the center of everything. Pietro Loro Piana started with wool in 1924, and a bag in that spirit should be quiet enough to carry for years. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together Pierre Laborde Bags and Duffle Bag.

The bags I'd actually carry on.

The Polène Bag, From a Paris Studio and the Workshops of Ubrique

Dior Edit

Balenciaga City Bag

Chanel Mini Flap

Chloé Paddington Bag

Gucci Tote Bag

Prada Bag Guide