Maria Lucia Hohan graduated from LISAA in Paris and worked as an illustrator in Milan before she opened her own studio in Bucharest in 2003. She started with two second-hand sewing machines, bought with 800 euro her father gave her, which is one of my favorite beginnings for a gown house. Her collections are full of textures and ethereal silhouettes, and she is credited with creating a new category of bridal and evening gowns. Everything here is a good place to see that idea. The Nadira pleated silk bustier gown, the Noor pleated silk bustier gown and the Morgan scarf-detail pleated silk bustier gown share the same fitted top and the fluid skirt. The Corinna pleated silk-blend maxi dress and the Corinna draped lace-up maxi dress show how one name can come in two moods. The Metallic Silk Mirren Maxi Dress has the shine, and the Jasleen Gown and Silk Marimar Gown keep the line cleaner. For a wedding with a strict dress code, my guide to black tie wedding dresses is the right companion.

This is the largest group, and it shows how many different ways one house can treat a long dress. The Edena pleated off-shoulder silk bustier gown, the Heidi pleated silk bustier gown and the Jasleen pleated silk bustier gown repeat the pleated line. The Huda metallic corset gown and the Ruched corset gown bring a little more structure. If you want a softer gown, the Tulle Coleen Gown and the Claudine scarf-detail silk mousseline gown are the ones I would look at first. For a plain, strong shape, the Silk Strapless Zephyra Gown and the Silk Cut-Out Tonia Gown stand out, and the Alessandra pleated strapless maxi dress is the easier one. The maxi dresses, such as Miko, Yua, Larisa and Kasumi, are simple enough for a dinner. A good test for a pleated gown is to stand and turn: the pleats should open and settle without catching. What I would skip is wearing a metallic corset gown with another shiny accessory, since the dress needs room. If you are comparing shapes, black tie dresses covers how long to go.

The designer cuts these pieces from the same idea as the gowns. The Zephy corset top, the Larya lace-trimmed silk-blend corset and the Samya lace-trimmed satin bustier top are the fitted ones, and the Sophie top and the Naija bikini top are lighter. The Medana Bridal Top and the Ariella Bridal Skirt give a bride the option of separates. The Celestina sheer metallic-effect cape is the dramatic layer for an evening. Hohan's team is all women, and garments go from design to store crafted by women, which makes a corset feel like something made with a real understanding of how it should sit. Wear the corset with a plain floor-length skirt, or the bridal pieces together. For more evening tops, my notes on silk tops for evening are a good place to keep reading.

Four short names finish the set: Iva Veil, Zephyra, Stephanie s and Cecilia. The Iva Veil is the obvious pairing for the bridal gowns, and the other three are the pieces to look at when you want the house's finishing touch without a full gown. Keep the rest of the look quiet, because the dress is already doing the talking. The Bridal Victoria silk muslin bustier gown and the Esteri Bridal Dress are the natural partners for the veil. If you are dressing a mixed group, bridesmaid dresses in long, midi and one shoulder shapes can help you think through the lengths. A veil does best with a simple hairstyle and no other head piece, so let it be the only thing above the shoulders.

I would choose a pleated silk bustier gown for a black tie night and keep every other detail plain. A designer who began with two second-hand machines now sells in selected department stores in more than 25 countries, and the hand-pleated look is still the best way into the brand. For more evening ideas, evening dresses got bolder is where I would go next.

If you want to keep going, Iris Serban Gowns and Bridal and Halston Gowns and Coats pair well with this edit.