Marine Serre was born in Brive-la-Gaillarde and graduated from La Cambre in Belgium in 2016, after time at McQueen, Margiela and Dior and a stretch at Balenciaga under Demna. The crescent moon appeared in her graduate collection, Radical Call for Love, and it has been her signature ever since. In 2017 she won the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, the youngest winner at the time and the first not from Central Saint Martins. Karl Lagerfeld, on the jury, called her one meter fifty with a will of steel, a line I love because the clothes feel exactly like that. Her first catwalk show, Autumn/Winter 2018, Manic Soul Machine, was built from more than 1,500 vintage silk scarves, which tells you how seriously the upcycling idea was meant. The dresses are the best place to see the whole language at once. The Moonogram mesh flock ruffles mini dress and the Black Moon gathered minidress are the graphic ones, the ruched jersey minidress is the quiet one, and the leather bustier mini dress with floral patches is the surprise. If you want a party dress with a bit of sheer mesh, this is a more Parisian way in.

The label calls its approach FutureWear, and the second skin top is the clearest example. The recycled moon jersey top and T-shirt are cut close to the body, so they work as a base layer under a jacket or on their own. The athleisure polo with moon inserts and the moonogram mesh flock polo are the sportier cousins, and the regenerated household cotton bowling shirt follows the reworked idea in its name. The regenerated cropped denim bustier is the one I would watch, because a bustier like that makes jeans feel dressed up. For more ways to wear it, there is a whole guide to corset tops in lace and denim. What I would skip is layering a second skin top under another clingy top, since the printed moon reads best against one plain surface.

Serre loves to blur the line between streetwear and tailoring, and the bottoms show it. The midnight blue denim flare and the monogram high rise wide leg jeans are the denim answers, while the black regenerated graphic jersey sweatpants and the faded moon sweatpants in taupe are the comfortable ones. The ombré high rise leather straight pants are the most dramatic piece in the group. Leggings come in moon printed jersey in pink, a burgundy moonogram mesh flock capri version and the Moon Diamant jacquard mesh style. Picture her on a Paris morning in the wide leg jeans and a plain white top, with nothing else loud. The cable-knit wool shorts and the white recycled moon jersey mini shorts are good reminders of the small shapes in between, and a story on micro shorts and fall tights gives the styling idea.

The last group is the most playful. Moon mesh tights, printed jersey tights and red plumetis mesh tights make an outfit out of the legs alone, and the Moonogram mesh flock catsuit and cover-ups do the same for the whole body. For the water there is a printed swimsuit, a black moon printed jersey one piece and a black jersey bikini. The shoes are my favorite part: Red and blue Moonogram ballerina flats, a red mesh flock kitten heel mule and leather slides. Wear the red ballerina flats with plain black tights and let them be the only color. If you like the idea, a closer look at mesh ballet flats is worth your time, and colored tights can take the red further. The bucket hat with visor, long socks and boxy Moire track jacket round it out.

My Marine Serre wardrobe would start with one second skin top, one pair of denim flares and the red ballerina flats. The moon is the point, but so is the idea behind it, a label that has used vintage silk scarves and tablecloths to make new clothes. I would add the track jacket for a cool morning and a Moon minidress when the evening needs something sharper.

For more in the same spirit, take a look at Rumored Dresses and GUIZIO Dresses & Skirts.