On June 14, 2022, Nike announced its first collaboration with Simon Porte Jacquemus, and the shoe at the center of it was one he had loved for years. In his own words, the collection came with "my own interpretation of the Humara, my favorite Nike shoe." It launched June 28 on jacquemus.com. That is the day Nike x Jacquemus stopped being a rumor and became something you could actually want.

I like this pairing because it comes from a real place. Jacquemus was born in Salon-de-Provence into a family of farmers and grew up in the small town of Mallemort in southern France. He started the label at 20 and named it for his mother's maiden name. So when he talks about sport, he is not borrowing a costume. He reworked a trail runner and a 1990s ad look with the same plain, slightly sunny eye he brings to everything else.

The first pairs are where the story starts. The J Force 1 Low LX SP is the Air Force 1 crossed with the ACG Terra, in leather with a braided sole and a small metallic Swoosh. I would take the Black for gray October days with wide jeans, and the White if you want something that reads clean under a long coat. The Earth in brown leather with the gold Swoosh suits knits and camel. The Bright Mandarin is the loud one, and it only needs a plain gray sweatpant to work. Then the Air Max 1 '86 Big Bubble in Mystic Red, Summit White and Silver, and the Air Humara LX in brown suede, which is where it all began.

Practical tip: on a low-top like the J Force 1, check how the heel sits and how the braided sole feels underfoot before you pick between two sizes.

The Moon Shoe has a better origin story than most sneakers. Nike co-founder Bill Bowerman was struck by the pattern of raised squares in his wife's waffle iron, poured liquid rubber into it, and made a new kind of sole. The racing shoe that came out of it was named for the crater-like imprint it left during testing for the 1972 U.S. Olympic Track & Field Trials.

Jacquemus saw it in the Nike archives and reshaped it. It debuted on his spring 2025 runway in Paris, and the commercial release followed in the fall of 2025. The version I like best is the low, torpedo-shaped profile with a gum waffle sole. The Alabaster in cream and the Soft Pearl are the quiet ones, and the Off Noir in black suede is the one for tights and a knee-length coat. The University Red is a single bright note, and the Fauna Brown suede looks right with corduroy. The Emerald Rise in light blue nylon and the Aluminum Pink are the pastel pair.

Fitting-room test: a shoe this low and flat looks best with a bare or sheer ankle, so try it with the socks you will really wear. The Air Humara LX in Sail, cream suede and mesh with a gold Swoosh, belongs here too, as the 2022 pair that opened the whole run.

What I would skip: the red, if every other piece in your closet is soft and neutral, since it will not match anything quietly.

Nike called the 2022 collaboration a 50-50 union, and you can see it in the clothes. The hoodies carry vintage ACG and Dri-FIT thinking, but the cut is relaxed and the colors are the soft browns and pinks of a Jacquemus show.

The Le Swoosh Hoodie comes in brown and dark pink with a big embroidered Swoosh, and I would wear the brown with a pleated skirt and the Black J Force 1. The Le Hoodie in off-white is the plainer one, with minimal Jacquemus and Nike branding, good under a trench. For October rain, the GORE-TEX 2-in-1 jacket in citron green and black or all black is the practical piece. Check that the removable layer zips in smoothly, and that the sleeves sit over a sweater without pulling.

The track jackets are the sports-fan side. The white zip-up with the stand collar is easy to layer, and the France jackets in blue and white, including the anthem version, are cut for the national team. They are good with straight jeans and a flat sneaker, and the blue works over a white tee.

What I would skip: the citron green GORE-TEX if your coats are all dark. It stands out, and you would want the rest of the outfit to stay out of its way.

Jacquemus added footwear to the brand in 2017, and bags have been a quiet part of the story ever since, so it makes sense that the Nike collection has them too. The Le Sac Swoosh is a mini top-handle bag with a gold Swoosh plaque, in dark pink or dark brown. It looks like a Jacquemus bag that happened to go to practice.

The Le Swoosh Crossbody in white with shiny silver hardware is the hands-free version. I would wear it across a puffer in winter, since the white shows up well against dark layers. Check the strap length on the day you buy, because crossbody bags that sit too high feel like backpacks.

The clothes are small and fitted. La Robe in white is a jersey T-shirt dress with a Swoosh detail, which I would wear with the Soft Pearl Moon Shoe and a denim jacket on an October weekend. The white bodysuit and the dark pink top are layering pieces under an open hoodie. Le Short in off-white works with tights and knee boots when it cools down. The blue striped France pre-match jersey, in a women's cut, tucks into a long skirt and is the loosest thing here.

What I would skip: the white bags for a rainy commute, unless you are happy to wipe them down every evening.

It is worth knowing what the brand does when Nike is not involved. Simon Porte Jacquemus founded it in 2009 at 20, and a decade later he marked the anniversary with a show in a lavender field. It is a house built on a rural, sunlit idea of France.

The bags are the best way in. The Chiquito is the signature mini top-handle in black leather with a gold logo plaque, and the Bambino is a small flap with an adjustable crossbody strap, made in Italy, as is the long Bambino with its gold plaque. The Turismo is a soft black bowling bag with top handles, and it is the roomiest of the group. Check the strap hardware and how the flap closes, and hold the Turismo on your shoulder to see how soft it sits.

The shoes lean sharp. The Tennis is an ivory croc-embossed suede sneaker with a gum sole, made in Portugal, and the most direct link back to the Nike pairs. The Tourni is the kitten heel in three versions: black leather pointed-toe pumps, light ivory wide-shaft suede boots made in France, and black stretch-suede sock ankle boots with a patent toe. I would put the ankle boots under wide trousers.

What I would skip: the ivory suede boots on wet days, because pale suede shows every drop.

I would start with one pair of shoes and let the clothes follow. If you want a daily sneaker, take the Black J Force 1. If you like something with more story, choose a Moon Shoe, since it started with a waffle iron.

Then add one piece from the hoodie or track-jacket group, and one Jacquemus bag from the last group if you want the brand without the Swoosh. Keep the colors close to each other, brown with cream, or pink with white, and the pieces will look like they were meant to go together.

It all comes back to the Humara, a trail shoe a farm kid from Provence loved enough to rebuild.