Rose Perfume Has Never Smelled Less Old-Fashioned

Rose Perfume Has Never Smelled Less Old-Fashioned

Rose perfume used to smell like a grandmother's dressing table, but the new roses are dewy, fruity, smoky or spiked with pepper and oud. These are the fresh roses I would wear every day, the darker roses for evening, and the rose body care that layers underneath.

Every May, in the hills around Grasse in the south of France, pickers gather rose de mai, the Rosa centifolia that perfumers have prized for generations. It blooms for only a few weeks and is picked by hand in the early morning, when the scent is strongest. Farther east, the Damask roses of Bulgaria's Rose Valley and the roses of Taif in Saudi Arabia are harvested with the same care. Rose is one of the oldest ingredients in perfume, and for a long time it smelled like it.

The reason rose perfume feels new again is what it is paired with. Put rose next to pear, raspberry or orange and it turns fresh and juicy. Put it next to pepper, oud or cherry and it turns dark and modern. Very few of the roses here smell like soap.

Dior's Miss Dior Rose N'Roses is the freshest, a bright, dewy rose that feels like a garden after rain. Valentino's Donna Born in Roma Coral Fantasy pairs rose with a juicy orange and jasmine. Kayali's Fleur Majesty Rose Royale is pear and rose over musk, soft and romantic, and Mugler's Angel Nova puts raspberry next to rose over a woody base.

Chloé's Eau de Parfum is the classic, rose and peony over honey and cedarwood, powdery in the nicest way. Lancôme's Idôle is a clean rose and jasmine with a modern chypre accord. And Gucci's Guilty Pour Homme, a men's scent anyone can wear, pairs fresh rose with hot chili pepper and cedarwood, the most surprising rose in this edit.

Collage on a white background showing Valentino Donna Born in Roma Coral Fantasy Eau de Parfum with Rose & Orange, Kayali OUDGASM ROSE OUD | 16 Eau de Parfum Intense, Sol de Janeiro Rosa Charmosa™ Dewy Body Cream with Rosewater + Crystal Peptides, Kayali FLEUR MAJESTY ROSE ROYALE | 31 Eau de Parfum, Chloé Chloé L'Eau de Parfum Intense with Raspberry, Rose & Amber, OUAI Melrose Place Gentle Body Wash, Chloé Chloé Eau de Parfum with Rose & Amber, Armani Beauty Sì Eau de Parfum with Vanilla & Blackcurrant and Rose and Kérastase Gloss Absolu Hair Perfume with Citrus, Vanilla & Rose.
Fresh roses, darker rose and oud, and rose body care to layer.

Darker roses for evening

After dark, I want rose with some weight. These pair it with oud, spice, vanilla or fruit, and they smell more like velvet than petals.

Tom Ford's Rose Prick is the one I would start with, a rose with a prickle of spice and roasted tonka that feels confident rather than sweet. Tom Ford's Lost Cherry is a black cherry and almond scent that opens into Turkish rose and jasmine, dark, glossy and a little decadent. Gucci's Intense Oud pairs Bulgarian rose with saffron and natural oud, rich and smoky.

Kayali makes two worth knowing. Oudgasm Rose Oud is exactly what the name says, rose wrapped in oud, and Oudgasm Milky Musk Oud is softer, strawberry cream and white musk over a silvery oud, the one for people who find oud too heavy.

Chloé's L'Eau de Parfum Intense adds raspberry and ambery woods to the house rose, a deeper version of the classic. Armani's Sì is rose, blackcurrant and woody vanilla, elegant and warm. Carolina Herrera's Good Girl Blush Elixir pairs rose with vanilla and patchouli, the most romantic of the group.

Rose and oud is a pairing with deep roots in Middle Eastern perfumery, and it makes sense the moment you smell it. The oud gives rose depth and smoke, and the rose keeps the oud from feeling too heavy. If you have only ever worn fresh florals, one of these on a winter night will change how you think about rose.

Rose on your skin and hair

Rose body care is how I wear rose on days I do not want perfume. It is softer and closer to the skin, and it helps any rose fragrance on top last longer.

Sol de Janeiro's Rosa Charmosa cream is water-whipped and dewy, with rosewater and the juicy, floral Cheirosa 91 scent, and it hydrates for up to 48 hours. OUAI's Melrose Place body wash is gently rose scented and softens without stripping. CYKLAR's Rose Bud hand cream has urea, ectoin and squalane for dry hands and cuticles, and it absorbs quickly.

Hair holds fragrance beautifully, so hair perfumes are a lovely thing to try. Gisou's Wild Rose hair perfume pairs wild rose with vanilla and honey and adds shine. Kérastase's Gloss Absolu hair perfume is sparkling citrus, rose and warm vanilla. Fable & Mane's Jaipur Rose mist spices rose with saffron and black amber, and Mane's Pinky Promise mist is lychee, rose and vanilla, sweet and fun. By Rosie Jane's White Tee is the quietest, cotton blossom and lily water with a soft rose, like a clean T-shirt.

Spray hair mists from arm's length onto brushed hair, not up close, so the scent spreads evenly. A little goes a long way, and your hair will carry it all day, catching every time you turn your head. The hand cream is the sneaky one, because you smell it every time you lift your coffee.

How to find your rose

Rose is personal. The same bottle can smell like fresh petals on one person and like jam on another, so always test on skin, not paper, and wait twenty minutes before you decide. The opening changes a lot once the top notes fade.

If you think you do not like rose, start with a fruity one like Rose N'Roses or Angel Nova, then try a dark one like Rose Prick. Most people who say they hate rose have only smelled the soapy kind. Try one in spring and one in winter, since warmth brings out the fresh side and cold brings out the depth. Layer a rose body cream underneath, and let the scent become yours.