Secondhand Silk My Favs

Secondhand Silk My Favs

My sixteen selects of scarves below are all ninety centimetre squares, split into two price bands

Under $430, which is most of the market

This is where the median sits, and it is the honest answer to what a secondhand carre costs. The eight scarves here run from $375 for Plaza de Toros up to $430, and four of them are priced at exactly $405, which shows how tightly the category clusters once you are past the rarest designs. What varies inside this band is the drawing rather than the silk. Les Fetes du Roi Soleil and Salzburg are dense, heavily worked compositions from the classical Hermes vocabulary, while Parures des Sables and L'Ivresse de l'Infini are looser and more pictorial. Silk is close to a binary on condition, because a scarf either has pulls, snags and watermarking or it does not, and nothing a cleaner does will improve it. Check the hand rolled hem in any photograph, since a machine finished edge or a loosened roll is the clearest sign of a scarf that has been laundered badly.

Above $445, and what the premium buys

The upper band tops out at $620, so even the most expensive scarf here is less than twice the cheapest one in the edit. The premium is not buying better silk, because the twill is the same weight across the whole range. It is buying a design people are actively hunting for, and sometimes a colourway that photographs unusually well. Les Nouveaux Amoureux de Paris at $620 is the outlier, a pale drawing that reads more like a print than a scarf, and that scarcity of style is what carries the price. La Promenade de Longchamps at $445 and Sequences at $450 sit at the bottom of the band and are hard to tell apart in quality from the group below, so if you like one of them you are effectively shopping the lower band with a better design.

Our honest take

A secondhand Hermes carre sits at roughly $430, and almost everything above that is paying for a design rather than for condition or quality. That makes this an unusually easy category to shop, because the downside is small and the range is narrow enough that getting the price slightly wrong barely matters. The variable worth caring about is the hem. A hand rolled edge is the construction detail that separates a real carre from a copy and an intact one from a mishandled one, and it is visible in a good photograph if you know where to look. Silk also cannot be restored, so grade is closer to a switch than a scale. If you take one thing away, choose the drawing you will actually wear rather than the cheapest listing, because dropping a band saves you around $80 and the scarf will be on your neck either way.

Shop brands in this edit