Some creative directors shaped a whole decade of fashion, and their bags are the clearest record of it. This edit covers John Galliano's Dior, the Gucci of the Tom Ford years, Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel and a few pieces from Céline, Balenciaga, Miu Miu and McQueen.

The Archive Is Calling
Galliano-era Dior, Tom Ford-era Gucci and Lagerfeld-era Chanel, with Philo's Céline and other influential creative eras
Why Galliano's Dior still matters
John Galliano ran Dior from 1996 to 2011, and the accessories from those years are the loudest in the house's history. The Rasta prints, the Gaucho leather and the Flight denim all belong to him.
Among the eight in this grid, I would look first at the Christian Dior Multicolor Rasta Saddle Bag, the Christian Dior White Python Rebelle Hobo and the Christian Dior Brown Trotter Canvas Jeans Pocket Tote Large.
I would start with the Saddle in Rasta stripes because it tells you so much about the early 2000s in a single bag. A longer tour sits in The Art of Vintage Dior.
John Galliano's Dior

Multicolor Rasta Saddle Bag
Christian Dior

Brown Leather Gaucho Saddle Bag
Christian Dior

Rasta Trotter Canvas Messenger Bag
Christian Dior

Navy Denim Trotter Flight Pouch
Christian Dior

White Python Rebelle Hobo
Christian Dior

Rasta Trotter Canvas Saddle Shoulder Bag
Christian Dior

Blue Trotter Denim Remove Before Flight Saddle Bag
Christian Dior

Brown Trotter Canvas Jeans Pocket Tote Large
Christian Dior
Gucci from the Tom Ford years
Tom Ford led Gucci's design from 1994 to 2004, and the bamboo and horsebit bags of that general period shaped how the house looks to this day. The Abbey and the bamboo totes below come from the early 2000s.
Among the eight in this grid, I would look first at the Gucci Black GG Denim Abbey Zip Tote, the Gucci Original GG Canvas D-Ring Abbey Tote Large and the Gucci Black Calfskin Bamboo Basket Bag Mini.
The GG canvas, the leather trim and the hardware are the reasons to look. For the full run of the house, see The Gucci Years.
Gucci from the early 2000s

Black GG Denim Abbey Zip Tote
Gucci

Brown Original GG Canvas Horsebit Shoulder Bag
Gucci

Black GG Canvas Abbey Pocket Hobo
Gucci

Brown GG Canvas Abbey Pocket Tote
Gucci

Original GG Canvas D-Ring Abbey Tote Large
Gucci

Black GG Denim D-Ring Abbey Tote Large
Gucci

Yellow Original GG Canvas Sukey Messenger
Gucci

Black Calfskin Bamboo Basket Bag Mini
Gucci
Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel
Karl Lagerfeld designed Chanel from 1983 until 2019, and his years produced the vinyl Whipstitch flaps, the tweed suits and the sequined pieces of the early nineties. Each one shows how far he was willing to push the house codes.
Among the eight in this grid, I would look first at the Chanel Yellow Vinyl Whipstitch Half Flap Jumbo, the Chanel Green Wool-Blend Skirt Suit and the Chanel Green & Brown Woven Tweed Mini Dress.
The tweed pieces are the easiest way in, because they work with almost anything. For more from this period, take a look at The Fashion History Edit.
Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel

Yellow Vinyl Whipstitch Half Flap Jumbo
Chanel

Multicolor Tweed Dress
Chanel

White Sequin Half Flap Medium
Chanel

Cream Fringe Tweed Dress
Chanel

Green Wool-Blend Skirt Suit
Chanel

Paris-Cuba Olive Sequin Clutch
Chanel

Black Crushed Velvet Whipstitch Half Flap Jumbo
Chanel

Green & Brown Woven Tweed Mini Dress
Chanel
Other creative eras
Some of fashion's most influential eras were short. Among the eight in this grid, I would look first at the Alexander McQueen Beige Python Knuckle Clutch, the Christian Dior Brown Leather Street Chic Columbus Shoulder Bag and the YSL Black Patent Leather Muse Medium.
These are worth knowing for what they say about their time.
Other eras worth hearing about

Beige Python Knuckle Clutch
Alexander McQueen

Pink Leather Crystal Embellished Shoulder Bag
Miu Miu

Black Nappa Crystal Flap Shoulder Bag
Miu Miu

Red Leather Muse Large
YSL

Brown Leather Street Chic Columbus Shoulder Bag
Christian Dior

White Embellished Street Chic Columbus Shoulder Bag
Christian Dior

White Calfskin Detective Satchel
Christian Dior

Black Patent Leather Muse Medium
YSL
How to listen to the archive
The best way to buy from an era is to know who was in charge. Learn the name of the creative director and the year, and the bag starts to make sense.
The best way to buy from an era is to know who was in charge. Learn the creative director's name and the years, and the bag starts to make sense on its own. Start with a single piece you can wear every day, and let the rest of the story come to you at its own pace. For more, try The Pieces That Got Away.






