The Christmas Outfits Edit: Five Lessons for Looking Festive Without Dressing as the Tree

The Christmas Outfits Edit: Five Lessons for Looking Festive Without Dressing as the Tree

Christmas outfits made easy: one deep red, a velvet skirt, a good knit, a tiny bow and dinner shoes you can stand in. I would rather dress like the person at the party than the one hanging off the tree.

Confessions of a December outfit planner

My Christmas outfit is decided approximately four minutes after the first decoration goes up, and then undecided, redecided and abandoned by the second week of December. I have opinions about the red, the velvet, the shoes and the sleeve length, and I have no shame about any of them.

But somewhere between the glitter, the plaid and the matching family pajamas, Christmas outfits have gotten a little loud. We are told to wear something festive and also to look like we are not trying. We are told to commit to red and also to avoid looking like a gift bag. The dry verdict is that most of us end up in black, apologizing to the room.

Which brings me to 1848, when the Illustrated London News published a drawing of the royal family celebrating around a tree bedecked with ornaments. The V&A notes that Prince Albert commissioned that portrait of three generations at Windsor, and that the engraving went on to be published in journals worldwide. One picture made an indoor tree the thing everyone wanted, and a whole market in sparkle followed. Nobody asked what the grown-ups should wear to stand near it, so here we are.

Some of what I read made me laugh. Some of it made me want to lie down on a velvet sofa. And some of it was actually useful for anyone who types Christmas outfits women into a search bar and gets six hundred sequin minidresses. Christmas outfit ideas do not need to be complicated, so here are five lessons, each with a few pieces I would put on a short list.

Mood board of Christmas outfits in cranberry, cream and gold

1. Red works best in one deep shade, not head to toe.

Picture her at the long table in a single deep red, no matching shoes, no matching bag, nothing trying to be the holly. Holly is the reason red belongs to the season at all: Britannica Kids says it came into holiday use because its thorny leaves and red berries reminded people of the crown of thorns. A color that old does not need to be shouted.

So choose one shade and let it stay quiet. Tove Malia cashmere sweater, Loulou de Saison cashmere sweater and Róhe polo are the easy way in, and each reads as a real knit before it reads as Christmas. For a longer evening, Victoria Beckham gathered jersey midi and Altuzarra Alix satin maxi, both in burgundy, are deeper and calmer than anything labeled festive. Tom Ford suede midi skirt is the pick for people who want red without a sweater anywhere near it.

Here is the test: hold the piece next to a real wreath or a ribbon from a gift. If they fight, you picked a toy red. If they look like cousins, you are done.

What I would skip: red head to toe with a red lip and a red bag, unless the plan is to be the centerpiece. Although if it is a gown like Ilkyaz Ozel gathered satin, nobody will blame you for committing.

2. A velvet skirt does more than a velvet dress.

Velvet is the Christmas fabric that earns its place on the table. It is woven on a special loom that weaves two thicknesses of the material at the same time, joined by an extra warp yarn, and then the two pieces are cut apart to create the pile. That is a lot of effort for something that mostly wants to be worn near a candle.

In our fashion dreams she is wearing the skirt, not the whole dress. Tom Ford animal-jacquard velvet midi skirt or Balmain draped devoré-velvet maxi skirt carries the whole look with a plain knit above it. Blazé Milano Coci mini is the short, sharp version. When a dress is the plan, Khaite Astor mini dress and Róhe sculptural peplum maxi are black and serious, while Etro open-back paisley devoré maxi brings the pattern for her.

The practical test is light. Stand by a window, then under a lamp. Good velvet changes color as the pile catches it, and that shift does the decorating for you.

What I would skip: velvet top and velvet bottom in two different blacks, which never match. Khaite cropped jacket and Etro paisley blazer work better over something flat and quiet.

Although honestly, one velvet piece is a party and two is a sofa.

Mood board of Christmas outfits in forest green velvet and tartan

3. Christmas morning deserves a good knit and real trousers.

The Victorian family in that engraving is gathered around the tree, in what looks like the middle of an ordinary and very good morning. Nobody in it is dressed for a photograph, and that is the lesson here. Christmas morning wants a good knit and trousers you can sit on the floor in for three hours.

Start with the sweater you would not mind being photographed in. The Row Phila cashmere sweater in navy, ARCH4 Susan in gray and Guest In Residence cozy cashmere sweater in sage are calm and soft. Lisa Yang Gudrun Fair Isle turtleneck is the one that looks like the holidays without a single reindeer on it, and Khaite Axel cardigan in army green is the layer for the cold hallway.

Then the bottoms, which most outfits forget. Victoria Beckham Alina flared pants in burgundy, TWP Avery herringbone wide-leg pants and Suzie Kondi velour Pantaloni all have enough room for second helpings. Picture her with coffee in one hand and a ribbon in the other.

What I would skip: anything tight at the waist. By noon you will want to be a different person.

Although a really good cardigan will survive both the morning and the dinner.

4. The most festive thing you can wear is a small bow.

Bows are the smallest festive thing you can wear, and also the oldest joke in fashion. Vogue reports that prior to the 18th century ribbons were primarily a part of menswear, until the power loom made them easier to produce and far more widely used. A ribbon is now a girlhood shorthand, which is exactly why a grown woman wearing one looks so deliberate.

So keep it small. Rixo Tassia cardigan in ivory with a lace-trimmed bow, Lanvin bow-detailed cardigan in burgundy and Simone Rocha bow-detailed cashmere sweater are knitwear that carries the idea on the collar. Zimmermann Clash striped sweater is the loud option. For the hair, Jennifer Behr Alaris and Czarina barrettes bring crystals, and I like that the Victorians already had the idea: the V&A says the tree created a market for ornaments in bright, reflective materials that would shimmer and glitter in the candlelight.

Burberry checked silk scrunchie in forest green and Gucci shearling headband are the quiet, cozy end of the trend. Cute Christmas outfits are one tiny detail and a lot of restraint.

What I would skip: a bow on the hair and a bow on the dress and a bow on the shoe. Pick one.

Although a barrette in a low ponytail is the single most festive thing I can think of.

5. Dinner shoes should survive a long table and a short walk.

Dinner shoes have two jobs, the long table and the short walk to the car. The second one tells you a lot. Nobody remembers the shoes that looked best at the party, only the ones that were still on at the end.

Mary Janes are a decent clue here. The Mental Floss history says the shoes used to be called Buster Browns, after the comic strip character who made his debut on May 4, 1902 in the New York Herald, and that in 1904 the Brown Shoe Company used the characters to market children's shoes. A strap across the foot has always been the practical idea, and Le Monde Beryl Claudia ballet flats with a buckle carry some of that same sense.

For a heel, Gianvito Rossi Sofia Sling and feather-embellished satin pumps, Aquazzura Meadow velvet pumps in mustard and Paris Texas Lidia in burgundy are the dinner heels worth standing in. Christen red Helix pumps are the confident one, and its mules are the easier cousin. Manolo Blahnik Carolyne 50 slingback in gold is a lower heel for the person who has already had a long day.

What I would skip: a brand new heel on the night itself. Wear it around the kitchen first.

Although a gold slingback makes plenty of holiday looks seem finished.

The season is a very good argument for restraint

The season is a very good argument for restraint

Look back over the five and a pattern shows up. One deep red, one velvet piece, a knit with real trousers, a tiny bow and a shoe that survives dinner. That is a whole outfit, and it does not need a headband of antlers.

I will still be tempted. In December I always am, usually by a sequin something at a very late hour. The royal family in that drawing had a tree and a few candles, and somehow they managed.

If you only remember one outfit from this December, make it the one you were comfortable in, and let the tree do the sparkling.