There was a time when a single handbag could define a season. This edit looks at the Yves Saint Laurent Muse, Dior's Detective and Malice, Fendi's Mama and Chef and Gucci's Abbey and Sukey.

The Lost Art of the It Bag
Yves Saint Laurent Muse, Dior Detective and Malice, Fendi Mama and Gucci Abbey, the handbags that defined an era
What was the Yves Saint Laurent Muse
The Muse was Yves Saint Laurent's 2006 hit under Stefano Pilati, a soft leather bag with a metal logo plate and a roomy slouch. For a few seasons it was carried everywhere, in black, red and a long list of exotic finishes.
Among the eight in this grid, I would look first at the YSL White Leather Muse Large, the YSL Beige Raffia Rive Gauche Tote and the YSL Brown Linen Rive Gauche Bucket Tote.
For more bags that defined a moment, see The Fashion History Edit.
Yves Saint Laurent Muse and friends

White Leather Muse Large
YSL

Multicolor Ponyhair St. Tropez Mombasa Small
YSL

Red Velvet Lou Lou Bag Small
YSL

White Tweed Puffer Lou Lou Toy
YSL

Beige Raffia Rive Gauche Tote
YSL

White Leather Mombasa
YSL

Black Calfskin Detective Voyage Large
Christian Dior

Brown Linen Rive Gauche Bucket Tote
YSL
Dior Detective, Malice and Street Chic
They were everywhere in the early 2000s and then quietly left. Among the eight in this grid, I would look first at the Christian Dior Brown Canvas Trotter Street Chic Boston, the Christian Dior White Calfskin Detective Mini and the Christian Dior Rasta Trotter Coated Canvas Messenger Bag.
They feel very specific now, which is part of the charm. I would wear a Street Chic tote on its own, with nothing matching. For the bigger Galliano picture, try The Archive Is Calling.
Dior Detective, Malice and Street Chic

Brown Canvas Trotter Street Chic Boston
Christian Dior

Black Canvas Street Chic Shoulder Bag Small
Christian Dior

Black Leather Street Chic Columbus Shoulder Bag
Christian Dior

Black Canvas Street Chic Tote Large
Christian Dior

White Calfskin Detective Mini
Christian Dior

Purple Satin Street Chic Fur Wristlet
Christian Dior

Red & Beige Diorissimo Canvas Street Chic Tote
Christian Dior

Rasta Trotter Coated Canvas Messenger Bag
Christian Dior
Fendi Baguette, Mama and Chef
Fendi's Baguette started the conversation in 1997, and its roomier siblings in Zucca canvas followed. The Baguette in beads, sequins, pony hair and embossed leather shows how far the house pushed one small shape.
Among the eight in this grid, I would look first at the Fendi Brown Zucca Coated Canvas B MIx Tote XL, the Fendi Multicolor Beaded Baguette and the Fendi Brown Zucca Canvas Embroidered Baguette.
I would choose the plainest silhouette in the brightest finish. For the family in full, The Fendi Archive is the next stop.
Fendi Mama, Chef and Baguette

Brown Zucca Coated Canvas B MIx Tote XL
Fendi

Black Embellished Baguette
Fendi

Gold Embossed Leather Baguette
Fendi

Silver Sequin Baguette
Fendi

Multicolor Beaded Baguette
Fendi

Yellow Floral Embroidered Zucca Baguette
Fendi

Pink & Brown Pony Hair Baguette
Fendi

Brown Zucca Canvas Embroidered Baguette
Fendi
Gucci Abbey, Sukey and hobos
They were made in GG canvas with leather trim, and the Jackie Hobo in red wool adds a seasonal twist. Among the eight in this grid, I would look first at the Gucci Red Wool Jackie Hobo, the Gucci Brown Crystal Canvas D-Ring Abbey Tote and the Gucci Gold Original GG Canvas Abbey Tote.
The slouchy shape is easy to wear today with anything casual. For how the house moved through the decade, read The Gucci Years.
Gucci Abbey, Sukey and hobos

Red Wool Jackie Hobo
Gucci

Original GG Canvas D-Ring Abbey Tote Large
Gucci

Original GG Canvas D-Ring Abbey Messenger
Gucci

Original GG Crystal Canvas Abbey Tote
Gucci

Brown Crystal Canvas D-Ring Abbey Tote
Gucci

Original GG Canvas Indy Hobo
Gucci

Brown Original GG Canvas Marrakech Hobo
Gucci

Gold Original GG Canvas Abbey Tote
Gucci
Why the It bag left
These bags left the mainstream because fashion moved on, not because they stopped being good. That is also why they feel fresh when you carry one now.
Pick the shape you remember best, choose it in a color you would wear daily, and use it. An It bag was always meant to be seen in the street, and these still turn heads there.






