The Modern Man's Off-Duty Uniform

Off-duty dressing for men has settled into a formula, a good shoe, a trouser with some structure, a knit that looks better with age and a coat that does the heavy lifting. This edit builds that wardrobe from Mytheresa and SSENSE, mixing the quiet luxury houses with a few technical labels.

 

Start at the floor. On's FKA twigs Edition Cloud and Cloudflow 5, Asics' Gel-Kayano 14 and adidas Originals' Virginia Vario are the athletic pairs, while Loewe's Grip Anagram, Maison Margiela's Replica, Lemaire's Gummy Grips and Bottega Veneta's Orbit are the designer ones.

 

For more shoes worth building outfits around, read The Sneakers Worth Making Room For.

A trouser is the piece that decides whether a casual outfit looks considered. Look for a straight leg, a fabric with weight and a length that just touches the shoe.

 

The Row's Nesper and Salma pants and Zegna's pleated wool pants are the tailored picks, and Tom Ford's chino trousers are the relaxed version. Sacai's Weathercloth trousers and Stone Island's cargo pants bring in the technical side, with Zegna's Roccia jeans and MM6 Maison Margiela's washed jeans for denim.

The knit is where a modern wardrobe gets its texture. Cashmere, alpaca and wool in grey, camel and black layer under almost any coat and look better the more they are worn.

 

Saint Laurent's cashmere sweater, Lemaire's alpaca and yak turtleneck, Jil Sander's wool sweater and AMI Paris' Ami de Coeur crewneck are the sweaters to start with. Studio Nicholson's Sandos knit jackets add a layer in two colours, and Brunello Cucinelli's cotton-blend shirt and Acne Studios' mended denim shirt sit underneath.

Outerwear is the biggest decision of the season, so buy it for how it works as well as how it looks. A wool coat, a down jacket and a lighter waxed or technical layer cover almost every day from October to March.

 

Our Legacy's Whale double-breasted wool coat is the smartest option, while Stone Island's Compass blouson, Moncler's Ravenlock and Sergesta down jackets and Loewe's Paula's Ibiza ripstop jacket are the technical ones. The A.P.C. x Barbour Beaufort waxed jacket, Acne Studios' relaxed denim jacket and Entire Studios' trench jacket round out the lighter layers.

The last decisions are the small ones, a hat for cold mornings, a scarf with a bit of pattern and a bag that carries everything without looking like luggage.

 

Brunello Cucinelli's alpaca and cashmere beanie and Moncler Grenoble's intarsia beanie keep the heat in, and Burberry's check wool scarf adds the pattern. Fendi's suede-lined crossbody, Saint Laurent's canvas tote, MM6 Maison Margiela's classic tote and Burberry's check belt bag carry the day, with Maison Margiela's 30 MM belt to finish.

Start with the coat and the shoe, then add a trouser and a knit that work with both. Everything else is a refinement of that base.

 

For more ways to dress for a long day on the move, read Frequent Flyer's Edit and Sneakers Fashion Girls Are Wearing Everywhere Right Now.