The Pearl Necklace: What Mikimoto Changed in 1893

The Pearl Necklace: What Mikimoto Changed in 1893

Pearls used to be one of the rarest things a person could wear, until Kokichi Mikimoto cultured his first pearls in 1893. Today a strand can feel as modern as a T-shirt if you wear it right. This is how to choose the size, the clasp and the outfit that stops pearls looking stuffy.

A rare thing made reachable

For centuries pearls were found by chance in wild oysters and treated like jewels. In 1893 Kokichi Mikimoto produced his first cultured pearls, according to Mikimoto and GIA, and the jewel became something many more women could wear. After years of chunky chain links and layered gold, pearls are the soft counterpoint. They glow against skin in a way metal does not. And they are the single piece of jewelry that looks equally right with a white shirt or a leather jacket.

The Pearl Necklace styled editorial photo 1

Size and length

A pearl of seven to eight millimeters is the classic choice for a strand at collarbone length. Larger pearls make a statement, smaller ones feel delicate and layered. A choker length sits at the base of the neck and looks modern. Nadri and Kendra Scott make accessible strands, while Chan Luu does freshwater pearls with a mix of shapes. Zoe Lev and Moon and Meadow do the finer end. Hold the strand up to the mirror and check the pearls against your skin. Warm skin tones suit cream, and cool tones suit white.

The Pearl Necklace styled editorial photo 2

Look at the luster and the knots

Good pearls have a shiny surface that reflects light like a mirror. A dull, chalky pearl is a sign of poor quality. Check that the strand has a tiny knot between each pearl, which keeps the pearls from rubbing and protects the strand if it breaks. Baroque pearls, which are slightly irregular, have a more relaxed look and are more forgiving. Picture her in a black turtleneck with a single baroque strand, walking through a market in a gray coat. The imperfection is what makes it look modern.

The Pearl Necklace styled editorial photo 3

How to wear them now

Wear pearls with something casual. A pearl strand over a gray sweatshirt or a plain white tee is the contemporary way. Layer a short strand with a gold chain for a mix of old and new. In our fashion dreams she wears pearls to the supermarket, and the checkout assistant looks twice. Pearl earrings are the easiest entry point, and a single strand is the simplest. Put them on last, after perfume and hairspray, to protect the surface.

What I would skip

I would skip plastic imitation pearls that peel. They look flat in sunlight and the coating wears off. I would skip a strand that is too long and swings when you move. And I would skip storing pearls in a plastic bag, since they need to breathe. Wipe them with a soft cloth after each wear, and have them restrung when the silk looks dirty.