The Shoe Edit: From Everyday Sneakers to Investment Loafers

The best men's shoes this season are clean leather sneakers, substantial loafers, lug-sole boots and a good pair of lace-ups. Everyday sneakers, investment loafers, cold-weather boots and dress shoes each have a grid, from weekend pairs to the ones worth resoling. A man needs one of each, and the quality of the sole matters more than the label.

The sneakers from Cole Haan, Balenciaga and Moncler lean minimal, in white, grey and brown. They work with trousers as easily as jeans. A leather upper wipes clean, which keeps them presentable.

Loafers from Ferragamo, Cole Haan and Gucci are cut with a sturdier last and a thicker sole this year. They suit tailored trousers and relaxed chinos. A suede pair is softer, and a polished leather pair is more formal.

The boots from Vince, Moncler and Ferragamo handle rain and cold, and the lace-ups from Ferragamo, Bottega Veneta and Cole Haan handle the office. A Goodyear-welted or stitched sole can be resoled, which extends the life of the shoe. Choose a plain toe for the widest use.

Heavily branded sneakers will look dated within a year, and a very thin sole on a dress shoe will not survive city pavements.

Shoes reward a little maintenance. Rotate pairs so leather can rest, use cedar shoe trees, and polish before they look dull rather than after. A decent pair kept up this way will go through several resoles, and each one makes the shoe fit your foot a little better. Break in new boots at home for a week before wearing them out, and keep a shoe tree in every leather pair.

If you take one thing away: buy the loafer first, because it works with a suit, with chinos and with jeans.