Theia was born in 2009 out of a change of plans. Don O'Neill, who is from Ballyheigue in Ireland, had created the Badgley Mischka Platinum label for JS Group, and when that license was not renewed he started a new label of his own. He named it after Theia, the Greek goddess of light, which suits a house built on gowns that catch it. The dresses here lean on drape, bead and flower. The Teresa Draped Gown, the Teresa Draped Strapless Gown and the Teresa Draped Tulle Gown show three takes on a single shape, and the Marie Strapless Beaded Gown and the Tessa Strapless Beaded Column Gown are the glittering ones. For prints, the Cleo floral-print strapless maxi dress, the Olyssia floral-print off-shoulder maxi dress and the Marlena Pleated Floral-Embroidered Taffeta Gown cover everything from a garden to a gala. The Aliana Strapless Mikado Cocktail Dress is the short option, and the Lace knit midi dress is the easiest one to wear. If you are heading to a formal wedding, my black tie wedding guest notes will help you pick.

The longer group is where the label's love of fabric comes through. The Orelia Organza Gown, the Laurel Organza Gown and the Delphine Pleated Organza A-Line Gown give you three organza shapes, and the Lyon Organza Rose Strapless Gown and the Ivana Strapless Printed Organza Gown add a flower or a print. The Sorelia Floral Beaded Gown, the Ginevra Floral Jacquard Gown and the Sandie Embroidered Gown are heavier and more formal, and the Rayna Draped One-Shoulder High-Low Gown and the Luana High/Low Gown are for those who want to see their shoes. Shorter dresses such as the Cece Pleated Organza One-Shoulder Cocktail Dress, the Emmeline Embroidered Cocktail Dress and the Marbella Beaded Midi Dress suit a party. A THEIA Couture line, created in 2019, was made using European couture fabric mills and embroidery studios, and you can feel that ambition across this group. A good test for any gown is the sit-down: if the skirt pools without pulling, it will work for a long dinner. What I would skip is wearing a high-low hem to a ceremony with a long aisle, because the front can catch on your heel. For a mother of the bride, mother of the bride dresses have shapes to compare, and for a garden wedding, garden formal wedding guest dress is the one to read.

Four pieces finish the edit, and they show the day dress side of the label. The Vada Taffeta Shirtdress and the Merisel Pleated Floral-Embroidered Midi Shirtdress give a dressy shirt shape a place at a daytime event. The Victoria Draped Rose Cocktail dress is the one to wear after dark, and the Misha Faux Fox Bolero is a layer for a cold evening over any of the gowns. The shirtdresses are the easiest way into the label if a full gown feels like too much, and a belt at the waist will keep the pleats and embroidery in order. Wear them with a simple pair of heels and let the pattern be the only decoration. Match the bolero with a plain, narrow gown so the volume sits at the shoulders and not at the waist. For more fall invitations, my fall wedding guest dress edit is worth a look.

I would choose one gown, keep the jewelry simple and let the fabric lead. Theia marked its tenth anniversary in 2019 with Love by THEIA, a younger line, and I like that a house for gowns made room for a lighter touch. For a larger wedding party, bridesmaid dresses in a mixed group might give you a few more ideas.

To round out the look, see Dress the Population Gowns and Dresses and Giorgio Armani Gowns and Blazers.