The Rockstud made its debut in 2010, in Valentino's autumn/winter collection. It was the brainchild of co-creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, who had been promoted from accessories designers in 2008. Picture the Rome of the house, where "bugnato" studs are a signature architectural feature, and then picture that texture shrunk down to small metal pyramids on a strap. That is the whole idea.

What I like about the story is how plain the brief was: contrast the classic prettiness of the brand with something more edgy and modern. Harper's Bazaar notes the first versions went onto caged heeled sandals and pointed flats in neutral colors. A pointed toe, a strap, a row of studs. Nothing else needed.

So this Valentino Rockstud dupe edit is about the detail, not one shoe. Every pair here comes from another label and shares that stud-on-strap, pointed-toe energy, in its own way. I would start with the slingbacks and kitten heels, because that is where October lives: tights, a trench, a skirt that stops at the knee.

The Rebecca Minkoff Paris Stud is the closest in mood, black leather, pointed toe, a band of small gold studs across the vamp. The Cinq à Sept Rena has caged straps with small metal studs, and the Vince Tania Stud uses slim crossing straps dotted with silver. The Ulla Johnson Vendome in nutmeg brings woven leather to the idea, which softens it. Check the studs first: they should sit evenly and feel smooth under your thumb, never snag a tight sock. Then check the slingback strap, which should hold the heel without slipping.

Elle described the original look as "aristo-punk", and I keep thinking about that word with sandals. The studs are the punk part. The straps are the polite part. When the two are in balance, the shoe looks considered, and when the studs crowd the strap, it starts to look busy.

The Cinq à Sept Maisie has gold studs along every strap with an ankle buckle, in dark brown, which feels right for fall. The Blair in black wraps the ankle and keeps the studs small. The Chocolat Blu Edella goes for rows of gold studs on a T-strap in tan, and the Dolce Vita Yves in onyx suede keeps its stud accents polished with a gold-buckle ankle strap. The Stuart Weitzman Dayna runs small metal studs around a tan suede platform, which is a different take: the edge is in the sole.

Everything in this group sits on a block heel, and that is the point. Elle quotes writer Liana Satenstein saying the Rockstud "isn't the most malleable shoe style-wise because of its heel height". A block heel with studs is an easier answer for a long dinner. I would wear the Maisie with sheer black tights and a slip skirt, and the Camel New Moon from Bernardo with wide denim.

At the fitting stage, press on the ankle buckle and walk a flight of stairs. Straps should not shift when the heel bends.

What I would skip: the brass-stud cross strap from Lucky Brand if you want a polished, dressy finish. It leans rustic, which is lovely, just a different mood.

Harper's Bazaar says the first Rockstud collection included pointed flats, and Marie Claire notes that Valentino dressed nearly every Fall 2010 model in studs, trimming T-strap ballet flats and stilettos. So the flat is not a lesser relative. It was there from the start.

For this group, I look at how the studs are placed. The Dolce Vita Caret in black suede has small gold studs and piping, an almond toe that reads close to pointed. The Vince Darla is a black satin ballet flat with a scatter of tiny silver studs and a small bow. The Loeffler Randall Landon scatters silver studs across soft black leather with a small bow at the vamp, which is a little more playful. The Naturalizer Carla in olive suede scatters silver studs across a soft pointed toe, and I would wear it with gray flannel trousers.

Then there are the Mary Janes. The Steve Madden Anaya has a studded strap and gathered elastic at the back, the Dolce Vita Mikel in light brown suede pairs gold studs with a gold buckle, and the AllSaints Sabine and the Free People Mirrorball cover the vamp in silver. These are louder than the strap-only look, so keep the rest quiet: a long coat, a plain knit, opaque tights.

A quick test: bend the shoe at the ball of the foot. Studs set into the strap should not poke through the lining, and the studs should not sit where the foot flexes. Suede wants a light brush after rain, not a soaking.

What I would skip: the spike-covered styles if you wear flats mainly to walk to work. They are better as an evening shoe.

The pyramid is the detail that sells the look, so with flat sandals I count the shape of the stud before anything else. Pyramid and dome studs read closest to the original idea. Bustle once put it neatly: "The studs give their pair of heels that street edge while holding the elegance and femininity of high heels." Take the heel away and the studs do all that work alone.

The VANELI Becky in tan has rows of gold pyramid-style studs on a T-strap with an ankle strap. The Grace Footwear Syros does gold pyramid studs on white leather, a good one for a bright pair of trousers. The Ash Phanny is metallic gold with round studs along the straps, a party shoe. The Beek Palila uses tiny studs along thin crossing straps in black, which is the quietest of the group.

The Loeffler Randall Hayes comes twice: black and silver with large dome studs across the band, and a clear-strap version with champagne studs. These are slides, so they behave differently from a T-strap. For October, I would put the black pair with wool socks and a trench for a weekend, the way a downtown friend does. The Dolce Vita Amary in light brown suede and the ALOHAS Ola in black with silver studs round things out.

Fitting test: with a T-strap, make sure the center strap lies flat against the top of the foot and the ankle buckle closes without pinching.

What I would skip: the clear-strap slide for cold days. It shows a lot of foot, and it is a summer idea in my mind.

Marie Claire lists the trademark Rockstud elements as "pointy toe boxes, ankle straps, and slim stilettos". That is a handy checklist for anyone shopping this group, because pumps and mules are where a look-alike either works or misses.

The Kenneth Cole Qupid Stud is a black suede pointed pump with a crossing buckled strap and gold studs, which gets closest to that list. The Aeyde Liz Mini is a pointed T-strap kitten heel with an ankle buckle and a studded vamp, and I would wear it with a pencil skirt and a gray coat. The Chloé Lola has an ankle strap with gold studs around the platform sole, so the studs sit low. The Free People Tell Me About It is a pointed block-heel mule with a studded ankle strap, an easier one for a long day.

The mules are flatter and calmer. The Vince August is a pointed dark brown mule with small metal studs around the edge, the Dolce Vita Joney is a closed-toe suede mule with gold studs, and the Tory Burch is a black flat mule covered in silver studs. The Jeffrey Campbell Agent has silver studs lining the edge of a heeled mule.

Check the toe: pointed shapes look sharpest when the line from heel to toe is straight, so stand in front of a mirror sideways.

What I would skip: a mule with a loose heel if you plan to run for a train. The pumps with an ankle strap handle that better.

I would start with the strap. If you wear heels, go for a slingback or an ankle strap with small gold studs on black. If you live in flats, the Mary Jane or ballet shape with a row of studs is the easy one.

Then I would check the studs, the toe and how the shoe closes: studs smooth and evenly set, a toe that keeps its point, a buckle that holds without pinching. Keep one thing studded and everything else calm, so the shoe is the detail people notice.

Chiuri and Piccioli said it in 2010 with a single idea, and a plain row of metal pyramids has not really left since.