Ana Radu is a Romanian fashion house from Bucharest, and the way it describes itself is my favorite part: it is known for negating fast-paced trends. The company behind the label was registered in Bucharest in July 2012, and the pieces since then have stayed in one lane, evening, occasion and bridal, rather than chasing whatever the week was selling. The signature is the floor-sweeping organza gown with romantic ruching, and you can see it all through this first group. The Scarlet Rose draped gown and the Midnight Bloom rose pleated gown are the flower-forward ones, the Valenty rose gown is close behind, and the Draped column gown is the quieter silhouette for anyone who wants the drama in the fabric alone. The Feather cape long satin dress and the Imperial cape gown add movement behind you as you walk. The Floral-appliqué one-shoulder dress and the two Seraphine styles sit in between. Picture a guest arriving at a black tie dinner in the Imperial cape gown, no jacket needed because the cape is the layer. If the dress code is the question, my guide to gowns that meet a black tie code walks through the details. The Lemon Blossom dress, the Muse dress and the Bloom dress bring a lighter mood to the same romantic idea.

The brand says its collections are meant to move from day to evening, and this longer group shows how seriously it takes ruching and tiers. The Asymmetric ruffled gown and the Rosaly ruffle gown pile the fabric up on one side, while the Layered plissé gown and the Petal-layered mini dress turn the layers into texture. Bustier minidresses are part of the label's signature too, so the Petal-layered mini dress is the short answer for a cocktail evening. For something sleeker, the Cross-neck gown, the Draped plunge gown and the Corset-Style draped maxi dress define the waist and let the neckline do the talking. The Moonlight sequin dress is the one that catches the light across a room, and the Off-shoulder tulle dress is the soft, romantic pick. The Crimson Rose dress and the Long satin dress with flower on the waist keep the signature blooms close to the body. What I would skip is stacking a statement necklace on the Cross-neck gown or the Draped plunge gown, because the neckline is already the focal point. For short evenings, I would read cocktail dresses for evenings that start at six, and for the longer ones, see how evening dresses got bolder.

Not every evening needs a gown, and this group brings the house's romantic lace and ruching down to skirts, trousers and sets. The Sequin-embellished bodysuit and skirt set and the Lace-detail skirt set are the closest to a full look, while the Velvet and lace co-ord set does the same in a deeper mood. The Lace maxi skirt and the Velvet midi skirt are the easy ones to wear with a plain knit during the day. The Floral lace trousers are the unexpected piece, a dressy alternative to a skirt for a long dinner. The Crystal-embellished washed denim midi skirt and the Crystal-embellished cropped jeans take the sparkle in a casual direction, which suits a brand that talks about day to evening. A good test for any of these: pair it with the plainest top you own and see if it still looks dressed. If you are unsure which lace is right for a formal night, my notes on lace or macrame for a formal dress might help.

The same flowers that appear on the gowns turn up here on much simpler shapes. The Rose T-shirt and the Rose detail T-shirt are the easiest way into the house, and the Oversized T-shirt is the plain option when you want the contrast with a skirt. The T-shirt with lace back detail and the Cut-out back T-shirt hide their detail until she turns around, which is a very good trick at a dinner. The Lace shirt and the Chantilly lace bodysuit are the dressier ones, and the Bow-detail velvet corset top is the clear pick to wear with a satin skirt on a night out. Tuck a T-shirt into the Velvet midi skirt from the previous group and the whole outfit reads evening without a single sequin.

Outerwear is a short section here, but each piece has a point of view. The Long dress with rose shawl keeps the rose motif going and doubles as a coat for the walk to the car. The Lumiere trench coat gives a long evening dress something practical to sit under, and the Wide-shoulder jacket with button closure sharpens a slip skirt. The Crystal-embellished denim jacket is the casual cousin of the crystal denim skirt and jeans. In our fashion dreams she is leaving a garden party at dusk in a long dress with the shawl across her shoulders, which is how I would wear the first piece. For that kind of afternoon wedding, see my garden formal wedding guest dress edit.

If I were building an Ana Radu wardrobe, I would begin with one real gown, the Draped column gown or the Imperial cape gown, and then add a Rose T-shirt and a lace or velvet skirt for the in-between evenings. A Romanian house that has stayed with evening, occasion and bridal wear since 2012 is rare, and that focus is what makes these dresses feel considered. I would keep the accessories quiet and let the ruching, the flowers and the organza do the work.

For more in the same spirit, take a look at Maria Lucia Hohan Bridal and Gowns and Giorgio Armani Gowns and Blazers.