Ann Demeulemeester

Ann Demeulemeester builds a dark romantic wardrobe from elongated lines, leather, asymmetry and the tension between softness and severity. Founded in Antwerp in 1985 by Ann Demeulemeester and Patrick Robyn, the house grew alongside the Antwerp Six and a deep conversation with poetry, music and visual art. The collection is for dressing with intention, not disappearing into the background.

Boots With A Poem In Them

Ann Demeulemeester founded her Antwerp label with Patrick Robyn in 1985, and the house has always treated footwear as part of its language rather than a finishing touch. The boots and flats carry the weight, buckles and elongated line that make the clothing feel grounded, with a little of the riding and punk vocabulary that has stayed in the brand's orbit. Choose the pair that gives your wardrobe structure, then let the rest remain spare.

Zoey leather ballet flats

Ann Demeulemeester

$940

Henrica leather ankle boots

Ann Demeulemeester

$1,620

Imme leather ankle boots

Ann Demeulemeester

$1,570

Sarith Engineer buckled leather biker boots

Ann Demeulemeester

$1,960

The House Codes

The clothing is where the house's codes become fully legible: asymmetry, narrow lines, sheer or satin surfaces and a tension between severity and softness. Demeulemeester was one of the Antwerp Six, and her work grew from a visual world shaped as much by Patti Smith and Arthur Rimbaud as by conventional dressmaking. Pick one elongated or off-centre shape, then resist the urge to make the outfit explain itself.

Aaricia asymmetric silk-satin maxi dress

Ann Demeulemeester

$1,780

Yana paisely-embroidered velvet jacket

Ann Demeulemeester

$2,430

Florence leather skinny-leg pants

Ann Demeulemeester

$2,110

Dot gathered ribbed cotton T-shirt

Ann Demeulemeester

$420

Kaisa duchesse-satin maxi skirt

Ann Demeulemeester

$1,460

Alba wrap openwork-stripe cotton shirt

Ann Demeulemeester

$1,060

Birit paisley-jacquard satin asymmetric wrap midi skirt

Ann Demeulemeester

$1,130

Xaja lace-trimmed silk-satin cropped cami

Ann Demeulemeester

$570

Our honest take

Our honest take: Ann Demeulemeester is not a brand for someone who wants clothing to behave politely. It rewards a dresser who can live with black, shadow, a sharp boot and the occasional beautiful complication, but the pieces are more versatile than the mood suggests. If you take one thing away, make it this: let the silhouette create the drama, and keep the accessories almost severe.

Ann Demeulemeester

Boots With A Poem In Them

Zoey leather ballet flats

Ann Demeulemeester

$940

Henrica leather ankle boots

Ann Demeulemeester

$1,620

Imme leather ankle boots

Ann Demeulemeester

$1,570

Sarith Engineer buckled leather biker boots

Ann Demeulemeester

$1,960

The House Codes

Aaricia asymmetric silk-satin maxi dress

Ann Demeulemeester

$1,780

Yana paisely-embroidered velvet jacket

Ann Demeulemeester

$2,430

Florence leather skinny-leg pants

Ann Demeulemeester

$2,110

Dot gathered ribbed cotton T-shirt

Ann Demeulemeester

$420

Kaisa duchesse-satin maxi skirt

Ann Demeulemeester

$1,460

Alba wrap openwork-stripe cotton shirt

Ann Demeulemeester

$1,060

Birit paisley-jacquard satin asymmetric wrap midi skirt

Ann Demeulemeester

$1,130

Xaja lace-trimmed silk-satin cropped cami

Ann Demeulemeester

$570

Our honest take

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