Art Deco Jewelry Is Having a Revival

Art Deco Jewelry Is Having a Revival

Art Deco jewelry is back, with onyx, jade, mother of pearl, spirals and fan shapes turning up across new collections. This edit covers the pieces themselves, from carved stone necklaces to geometric gold, and the dresses and bags to wear with them. Most of it works just as well with a sweater as with a gown.

Start With One Graphic Piece

The 1920s look shows up in jewelry through bold colour, strict geometry and stones like onyx, jade and mother of pearl, and designers including Sophie Buhai and Fernando Jorge have leaned into it. The easiest entry is a single piece with a strong outline. Sophie Buhai's carnelian and pearl Angelyne earrings, Gucci's silver Horsebit necklace, David Yurman's gold Cablespira cuff and Paola Sighinolfi's gold Lia ring all qualify.

Malachite, Enamel and Stone

Colour is half of the Deco look, and green stone does it best. Jennifer Behr's malachite and crystal Sidonie necklace and Completedworks' green agate and calcite beaded necklace are both substantial enough to wear alone, while Yvonne Léon's multi-stone Alliance ring and Zimmermann's enamel Plum earrings add smaller flashes.

Geometry in Gold

Spirals, fans and hard edges are the other half. Saint Laurent's round gold-tone resin earrings and Khaite's wide Keefe cuff are about shape more than sparkle, Ileana Makri's gold Spira ring picks up the spiral motif, and Foundrae's amethyst Resilience Blossoms pendant adds a little colour.

A Dress to Wear It With

Deco jewelry looks best against a clean neckline and a rich fabric. Alix of Bohemia's black velvet maxi and Taller Marmo's navy feather-trimmed velvet mini give it depth, St. Agni's cream halterneck maxi shows off a necklace, and Balmain's bright green draped charmeuse maxi turns a pair of gold earrings into the whole look.

Evening Finishing

Judith Leiber Couture's black Origami Fan clutch is about as Deco as a bag gets, fan motif and all, and the brand's pink Cosmopolitan clutch is the lighter option. Jil Sander's beige patent Alma pumps keep the shoes simple, and Khaite's brown Remo leather gloves add the old-fashioned finish that makes the jewelry look even more deliberate.

Our honest take

Deco jewelry is one of the easier trends to wear because it relies on shape and colour rather than size. If you take one thing away, let it be that one strong graphic piece does more than a stack of small ones. A green stone necklace with a black sweater, or gold geometric earrings with a plain white shirt, reads as considered without any other help. We would skip buying a full matching set, since earrings, necklace and bracelet in the same motif start to look like a costume. Mix one Deco piece with the jewelry you already own. Gold and silver can sit together here, and a single good ring is often enough.