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Phoebe Gates

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Pascale Monvoisin Jewelry

Pascale Monvoisin Jewelry

Pascale Monvoisin spent around fifteen years as a flight attendant for Air France before a batch of turquoise bought on a stopover in Jaipur turned into her first ring and, by 2009, her own Paris jewelry house. Every piece is still designed in her Paris studio and produced by artisans in that same Jaipur workshop, now grown from one craftsman into a full production unit.

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The New Arrivals Ilkyaz Ozel

The New Arrivals Ilkyaz Ozel

İlkyaz Özel spent about a decade working as a freelance fashion stylist in Istanbul before launching The New Arrivals there in 2020, after also founding and running a separate label, Studio'11, from 2017. The brand built its name on eveningwear, especially slip and night dresses, filtered through what she describes as the duality of Mediterranean serenity and indulgence, relaxed daytime ease set against unapologetic nighttime glamour.

Ivi Kyratzi's IVI: Jewelry Made With Italian Factory Craft

Ivi Kyratzi's IVI: Jewelry Made With Italian Factory Craft

Ivi Kyratzi, a Cypriot designer who trained at Parsons in New York, launched her namesake jewelry label IVI in Los Angeles in 2016 after meeting Italian manufacturer Gabriele Veneri, whose family has worked metal in Arezzo, Tuscany for generations. Every piece is still produced in Veneri's Arezzo factory, and the brand's first release, the Slot collection, remains its best-selling range nearly a decade later.

Sylva & Cie

Sylva & Cie

Sylva Yepremian, who was born in Lebanon, raised in Paris and trained at the jeweler's bench by her father, a master craftsman who had worked for Cartier, co-founded Sylva & Cie with her husband Raffi in Los Angeles in 2007. Their families had run jewelry businesses in the same downtown LA building for decades, and the label built its identity on hand-crafted, antique-inspired pieces drawing on Georgian and Victorian design.

Stephen Russell Jewelry: Antique and Vintage 18K Gold Pieces

Stephen Russell Jewelry: Antique and Vintage 18K Gold Pieces

Russell Zelenetz, who had been headed for dental school before taking jewelry classes at the Fashion Institute of Technology, teamed up with Stephen Feuerman, who had worked the jewelry trade in London, to open Stephen Russell on Madison Avenue in New York in 1984. The shop built its name on carefully vetted vintage and antique jewelry spanning the Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco and retro periods, alongside original contemporary designs made in the same spirit.

Adidas x Wales Bonner

Adidas x Wales Bonner

Grace Wales Bonner launched her own label in London in 2014, straight out of Central Saint Martins, and began collaborating with Adidas Originals in 2020. That partnership took the archival Samba, a 1949 football shoe, and reworked it season after season in crochet, pony hair and metallic leather until Lyst named it 2023's shoe of the year.

Zulu & Zephyr: Bondi Knit Tops and Skirts From Two Sisters

Zulu & Zephyr: Bondi Knit Tops and Skirts From Two Sisters

Sisters Candice Rose-O'Rourke and Karla Rose founded Zulu & Zephyr in Bondi Beach, Australia, in the summer of 2012, building the label's design brief around reviving their mother's 1970s prints and textures. The name pairs two deliberately contrasting ideas, Zulu for strength and Zephyr for a relaxed, floating quality, which the sisters point to as the tension the brand designs around.

Elie Saab Dresses

Elie Saab Dresses

Elie Saab opened his first atelier in Beirut in 1982, at eighteen, after a brief stint studying in Paris and against the backdrop of Lebanon's civil war. His signature was set early and never really wavered: Western silhouettes layered with Middle Eastern embroidery, beading and crystal work, the kind of dressmaking that turned him into the go-to name for red carpets and, in 1999, Queen Rania of Jordan's coronation gown.

Sig Ward Jewelry

Sig Ward Jewelry

Sig Ward spent over a decade working as an acupuncturist in Southern California before she started making beaded jewelry with the healing stones she used in her practice, a hobby that eventually became a full line called Rocks and Gems. She relaunched under her own name, Sig Ward Jewelry, around 2014, designing primarily in 14k and 18k gold and drawing on her mother's vintage jewelry collection and her childhood on the beaches of Tel Aviv.

Temily Dresses

Temily Dresses

Rae Temily spent around fifteen years working behind the scenes for other labels, including co-founding the resortwear brand Kalita, before launching her namesake house in New York in April 2025 exclusively through Moda Operandi. Her debut collection, The Body Electric, was built around a satin maxi dress called Summer Bones, and reportedly sold out three separate times, with its first colorway gone in about three hours.

Cala de la Cruz: Colombian Resortwear, Dresses and Prints

Cala de la Cruz: Colombian Resortwear, Dresses and Prints

Carolina López Cruz launched Cala de la Cruz in 2018 in Cali, Colombia, with her mother Liliana as partner, after training in textile design at Savannah College of Art and Design and fashion at Istituto Marangoni in Milan. The label runs on bold, illustrative prints and retro-leaning silhouettes made locally by small family workshops in Cali, often to order rather than in bulk.

Meridian Swimwear Swimwear

Meridian Swimwear Swimwear

Sisters Jordan LaGuardia and Terese Ostendorf LaGuardia launched Meridian Swimwear out of Brooklyn in 2022, bringing backgrounds in art direction and luxury womenswear design, including Terese's work at the label LESET, to a category they felt was missing their own point of view. The brand describes its look as relaxed minimalism crossed with retro nostalgia, filtered through the New York City sensibility where both sisters started their fashion careers.

L'IDÉE

L'IDÉE

Breeana Smith and Iuliia Ievdokymenko founded L'IDÉE in Australia in 2019, splitting the label between Smith's brand and commercial direction and Ievdokymenko's design and production work based in Bali. The whole point of the label is engineered, heat-set pleating in saturated colour, a technique Smith traces back to a trip to Paris and her grandmother's vintage pleated skirt.

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Vertigo Jewelry

Vertigo Jewelry

Taylor Sade started Vertigo in 2021 after buying out a closing lapidary's stock of oversized stones on a trip home to Phoenix, Arizona, then teaching herself to string beads despite having studied communication design at Parsons rather than jewelry making. She built the brand between Phoenix and New York, chunky amulets, medallions and hip belts in stones like turquoise, malachite and lapis lazuli, and a 2023 New York Times profile naming her pieces the necklace of the moment prompted her to quit her day job and run the label full time.

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Gazza Ladra Jewelry: Gold Necklaces and Earrings Built in New York

Gazza Ladra Jewelry: Gold Necklaces and Earrings Built in New York

Gazza Ladra jewelry was built in New York by Sunny Setton De Poortere, a former documentary film producer and tour manager. I picked the gold necklaces and earrings, from lizard earrings to a single shell earring.

State Property Jewelry

State Property Jewelry

State Property is the Singaporean fine jewelry label started in 2015 by married couple Afzal Imram, trained in industrial design at the National University of Singapore, and Lin Ruiyin, trained in contemporary jewelry design at Central Saint Martins in London. They funded their first collection through commission work before launching properly, won Emerging Accessories Designer of the Year at the Singapore Fashion Awards in 2017, and landed their first major celebrity placement in 2018 when Nicole Kidman wore their earrings to a film premiere.

Mateo Jewelry

Mateo Jewelry

Matthew Harris, who goes by Mateo, started making jewelry for himself in Brooklyn in 2009, the story goes that a screw fell out of a wall while he was moving apartments and he turned it into a necklace. He is self-taught, and the label he eventually built stayed men's-only until 2014, when he launched a women's fine jewelry line after Rihanna was photographed wearing one of his pieces.

Keagan Ramsamy and Louise de Rothschild: Founders of Mazarin

Keagan Ramsamy and Louise de Rothschild: Founders of Mazarin

Louise de Rothschild and Keagan Ramsamy, who met working in the jewelry department of the Paris auction house Pierre Bergé, founded Mazarin in 2022. They named the house after Cardinal Mazarin, the 17th-century minister whose collection of exceptional diamonds became legendary, and built their own version of that history on lab-grown diamonds and recycled gold rather than antique stock.

SIRAPOP Dresses

SIRAPOP Dresses

A pair of Parson's founders Sirapop's whole approach is a kind of controlled tension, soft fabric pushed into structured, sculptural shapes

Jacquie Aiche Jewelry: 14K Gold Necklaces and Rings From LA

Jacquie Aiche Jewelry: 14K Gold Necklaces and Rings From LA

Jacquie Aiche grew up in Los Angeles making bead necklaces before she ever meant to start a company, and she launched her namesake jewelry line there in 2007 after years of selling pieces anonymously off her own body while running a clothing boutique on Sunset Plaza. The brand's break came from the finger bracelet she designed around 2009, an idea odd enough that it turned into a genuine signature worn by Beyoncé, Rihanna and the Hadid sisters, among others.

Nada Ghazal Jewelry

Nada Ghazal Jewelry

Nada Ghazal spent a decade in Dubai advertising, rising to senior art director at Impact BBDO, before returning to Beirut in 2003 to design jewelry instead. Her first collection, twenty five handmade pieces in eighteen karat gold wire called Organised Chaos, reportedly sold out within days of its December 2003 debut, and she opened her first Beirut boutique and atelier the following year.

Francesca Miranda Dresses

Francesca Miranda Dresses

Francesca Miranda started her namesake label in Barranquilla, Colombia in 1995, launching with a menswear shirting line after years spent helping run her husband's garment business. The house is known for reviving pata de cabra, a handcrafted Colombian technique that weaves strips of fabric into fringe-like draping, used across her dresses, tops and skirts and made with local artisans.

Les Tien Knitwear

Les Tien Knitwear

Courtney Michelle Ogilvie launched Les Tien, whose name translates from French as "yours," in Los Angeles in 2018, after previously founding the fashion developer Fit and Supply and the California manufacturing operation L.A. Makers, which produced for labels like Yeezy and Fear of God. The label's whole identity is process: fabric is treated and garment-dyed in-house before it is cut and sewn, which is what gives the sweatpants their lived-in, worn-soft hand feel.

Rachel Quinn Jewelry: From Painting and Sculpture to Gold

Rachel Quinn Jewelry: From Painting and Sculpture to Gold

Rachel Quinn jewelry here is made in 14K yellow gold, with amazonite, sapphire and coral in pendants and earrings.

Bleecker and Prince: Leehe Segal's 14K Gold Jewelry

Bleecker and Prince: Leehe Segal's 14K Gold Jewelry

Leehe Segal launched Bleecker and Prince in New York in the early 2010s, naming it for two SoHo streets that run close but never meet. I went through its 14K gold hoops, pendants and bangles.

Kamperett Dresses: A Founder-Run San Francisco Label

Kamperett Dresses: A Founder-Run San Francisco Label

Kamperett dresses come from a San Francisco label that Anna Chiu and Valerie Santillo launched in 2015. I go through the silk slip dresses, tulle and lace gowns and skirts, and the nostalgic, art-deco leaning eye behind them.

Fernando Jorge Jewelry

Fernando Jorge Jewelry

Fernando Jorge trained as a jewelry designer in São Paulo before moving to London in 2008 for a master's at Central Saint Martins, launching his own label out of that degree in 2010. His signature is sculptural, high-polish gold built around movement rather than stacked stones, made by artisans working across Brazil and Italy.

Studio Amelia Shoes

Studio Amelia Shoes

Emily Amelia Inglis founded Studio Amelia in Sydney in 2019 after struggling to find a flat sandal that was neither too relaxed nor too dressy, and deciding to design her own. The debut collection launched with just four sandal styles in four colorways, and was an instant hit