Ballet Flats Are Back, but Not as a Nostalgia Act

Ballet Flats Are Back, but Not as a Nostalgia Act

See how ballet flats return with less sweetness, from Acne Studios suede lace-ups to fishnet and woven leather styles that sharpen the classic shape.

Ballet flats are back, but their current appeal has less to do with reliving school uniforms than with the welcome absence of a heel. The best versions here have a little friction in them: ACNE STUDIOS' lace-up suede and leather pair looks almost utilitarian, while the adidas Originals x Jennie Superstar Sq Ballerina Flat takes its square toe cues from the sneaker cupboard. Then there is ALAÏA's Fishnet Ballet Flats, which refuses to pretend a flat has to be quiet. That range is the point. The old formula paired a tiny shoe with an equally precious outfit, as if the wearer might be late for a tea party. These have more useful company: straight denim, loose trousers, a skirt that is not part of a matching set. A.W.A.K.E. MODE's Ballerina Embellished Silk-Blend Top is the lone top in this assortment, and it makes a good case for letting one delicate detail do the talking. Keep the hem relaxed, the ankle visible, and the shoe comfortable enough to leave the house in.

Our honest take

A ballet flat works best when it is not asked to make the whole outfit sweet. I like the contrast of Bottega Veneta's woven Charlotte Intrecciato with plain denim, or Balenciaga's City Leather Ballet Flats under a longer hem that gives the shoe room to look a little blunt. ALAÏA's fishnet pair is a more deliberate choice; it needs nothing fussy around it. What I would skip is buying a flat that looks charming only when you are standing still. The low profile leaves nowhere to hide a pinched toe or a slipping heel, and a shoe you keep taking off has lost its argument. The useful distinction is not classic versus trendy. It is whether the shape feels like yours after the novelty wears off. If you take one thing away, walk around in them before you decide.