The best designer jeans are not the most dramatic pair in the room. They are the ones with a rise, leg and level of distress that make the rest of dressing easier. I start with the shape I actually need, then check the denim, the waist and the price in that order. Straight leg is the dependable middle ground. Wide leg earns its volume when the hem is long enough to create a line, while high rise is useful only if it sits comfortably rather than announcing itself every time you bend. I am suspicious of novelty washes and complicated hardware unless the cut is otherwise excellent. The selection here runs from the Still Here Cool wide-leg jeans at $325 to the Loewe Pleated mid-rise wide-leg jeans at $1,550, so the question is not simply whether a pair is expensive. It is whether you will still want its particular shape after the first enthusiasm fades. I have also included denim skirts, dresses and a top because a strong denim wardrobe should not be limited to five versions of the same jean. Below, the designer denim I would buy, with the useful cuts separated from the pieces that need a more specific mood.

self-portrait is better known for occasion dressing, but its denim pieces make a convincing case for treating the fabric as something more than a weekend uniform. The Denim Mini Dress at $343 is the clean starting point, while the Denim Bow Mini Dress at $345 adds a detail without changing the basic usefulness. The Denim Broderie Mini Dress at $387 is the prettiest proposition, and the Rhinestone Croc Effect Denim Mini Dress at $417 is for the person who wants denim to be noticed. I would also look at the Grey Knit Khaki Denim Insert Midi Skirt at $460, because it breaks the expected dress-only rhythm. The label's strength is making denim feel occasion-aware, so keep the accessories simple and let the texture carry the argument.

Straight leg is the designer jean shape I would begin with because it balances almost everything else in a wardrobe. The Acne Studios 2009 mid-rise distressed straight-leg jeans at $600 are the fashion version, with the distress doing the talking. The Polo Ralph Lauren Rigid Denim Standard Straight Jeans at $398 are more restrained, while the Rùadh Agnes recycled straight-leg jeans at $520 give the category a slightly less familiar name. The Aya Muse Straight Denim Jeans at $615 are the sharpest splurge, but I would inspect the rise before committing. A straight leg should skim rather than cling. If the knee bags immediately or the hem stacks awkwardly, the label cannot rescue the fit.

Wide leg needs proportion, not just extra fabric. The Still Here Buckle Wide Leg Jeans at $350 are the accessible starting point, and the Alaïa Mid-rise wide-leg jeans at $1,500 are the cleanest version of the idea. The Nili Lotan Terese wide-leg jeans at $480 have the quieter, repeatable feel I want from a daily pair. The RÓHE Rixt low-rise wide-leg jeans at $465 offer a different waistline, while the Loewe Pleated mid-rise wide-leg jeans at $1,550 are the statement purchase. I would only pay that much when the pleat and line are exactly what you want, because wide denim is unforgiving when it is merely oversized. Wear the longest pair with a shoe that gives the hem a clean finish.

High rise works when it gives the outfit a clear starting point, not when it becomes the entire outfit. The Khaite Abigail high-rise straight-leg jeans at $590 are the most balanced choice here, and the Slvrlake High-rise straight-leg jeans at $320 are the sensible alternative. The Saint Laurent High-rise bootcut jeans at $1,230 are for a very specific shoe and should be bought with that shoe in mind. The Khaite Danielle high-rise slim-leg jeans at $620 are the sharper option, while the Bottega Veneta High-rise slim-leg jeans at $1,300 are a serious spend for a familiar line. Check the waistband seated, because comfort is the whole point of a high rise.

Denim is the shopping list here, and the best pieces are the ones that let you wear the fabric in more than one register. The Sau Lee Mason Denim Jeans at $375 are the obvious starting point, while the Zimmermann Belted denim midi skirt at $895 makes a skirt feel substantial rather than sweet. The Cult Gaia Charo Denim Dress at $498 is the polished dress option, and the retrofete Rhonda Denim Top at $398 is for a more deliberately styled look. The Rotate Denim Buttoned Top at $330 is the most useful odd one out. I would buy one of these only if it adds a new shape to your wardrobe, not simply a new shade of blue.

The fitting room test for jeans is simple and slightly boring. Walk, sit, bend and check the waistband from every angle before you decide that the denim will soften into perfection. It may soften, but it will not change an unsuitable rise or a leg that overwhelms your shoes. I would spend more readily on a cut I wear twice a week than on a recognisable name with an awkward proportion. Wash denim inside out, avoid treating every pair as a precious object, and remember that the best jeans are allowed to look lived in. Start with straight leg if you are unsure, then add volume or height only when you know what is missing. Phoebe