Formalwear is in an unusually permissive stretch, where the dress code is stated and then quietly reinterpreted by everyone attending. The result is more range than black tie has allowed in decades. Some of it is genuinely better than the old rules.
Black Tie, Reconsidered

Dresses
The dress is back to being a whole outfit rather than a base layer. After years of dresses styled under things, wearing one on its own feels almost contrarian.
Nadia Satin Gown
A.L.C.
Lara Pleated Satin Gown
A.L.C.
Off-The-Shoulder Jersey Bandeau Maxi Dress
ALAÏA
Palma Asymmetric Ruffle Maxi Dress
ALICE + OLIVIA
Forever Young Ramwark Ruffled Maxi Dress
Acler
Forever Young Limisi Maxi Dress
Acler
Werona Satin One-Shoulder Gown
Acler
Forever Young Pullford Metallic Pleated Gown
Acler
Embroidered Floral Applique Gown
Aidan Mattox
Floral Beaded Crepe Column Gown
Aidan Mattox
Colorblock Oro Lienzo Fringe Column Gown
Akris
Mock-Neck Fringe Knot Sleeveless Velvet Trumpet Gown
Akris
Embroidered Organza Sheath Dress
Akris
Grid Seersucker Sleeveless Midi Dress
Akris
Sleeveless Velvet Midi Cocktail Dress
Akris
Strapless Trapezoid Embroidered Organza Fringe Maxi Dress
Akris
Sleeveless Cloud-Print Silk Crepe Maxi Dress
Akris
Sleeveless Viscose Jersey Back-Cutout Midi Dress
Akris punto
Blouson Halter Gown
Amsale
Stretch Crepe Off-The-Shoulder Gown
Amsale
Ruched High-Slit Column Gown
Amsale
Strapless Satin Bow Column Gown
Atelier Prabal Gurung
Hunter Crystal And Satin Halter Trumpet Gown
Atelier Prabal Gurung
Twisted Cowl-Neck Halter Gown
BCBGMAXAZRIA
More dresses
The second group leans harder into cut. A dress that works without styling is a much harder design problem than one built for layering.
Oly Ruffle Tiered Corset Gown
BCBGMAXAZRIA
Sequin-Embellished Cutout Gown
BCBGMAXAZRIA
Sleeveless Cowl-Neck Draped Twist Gown
BCBGMAXAZRIA
Mikado Cape Column Gown
Badgley Mischka
Satin Floral Strapless Column Gown
Badgley Mischka
Strapless Bow-Back Trumpet Gown
Badgley Mischka
Draped Floral-Print Georgette Gown
Badgley Mischka
Strapless High-Low Pique Gown
Badgley Mischka Collection
Sleeveless Silk-Wool Crepe Balloon Mini Halter Dress
Balenciaga
Strapless Draped Mini Balloon Dress
Balenciaga
Silk-Wool Draped Cape Midi Dress
Balenciaga
Long-Sleeve Beaded Velvet Maxi Dress
Balmain
Strong-Shoulder Jersey Ruched Slit Maxi Dress
Balmain
Strong-Shoulder Draped Jersey Long-Sleeve Dress
Balmain
Embroidered Strap Silk Column Dress
Balmain
Embellished-Strap Velvet Gown
Balmain
Jacqueline Draped Mini Dress
Black Halo
Jacqueline Cowl-Neck Jersey Gown
Black Halo
Dahlia Strapless Embroidered Sequin Gown
Bronx Banco
Benita Strapless Maxi Dress
Cara Cara
Strapless Embellished Midi Dress
Carolina Herrera
Embellished Strapless Ankle Dress
Carolina Herrera
Floral Crisscross Halter Midi Dress
Carolina Herrera
Floral-Print Silk Chiffon Asymmetric Ruffle Gown
Carolina Herrera
Still more dresses
More dresses, and the range here is the point. The category has stopped agreeing on a single correct length.
Draped Off-Shoulder Gown
Carolina Herrera
Off-The-Shoulder Floral Jersey Maxi Dress
Carolina Herrera
Kyomi Draped Column Gown
Chiara Boni La Petite Robe
Vezia Twisted Off-The-Shoulder Column Gown
Chiara Boni La Petite Robe
Janis Sleeveless Halter Gown
Chiara Boni La Petite Robe
Becia Ruched One-Shoulder Satin Gown
Chiara Boni La Petite Robe
Isolda Beaded 3D Flower Appliqué Drop-Waist Maxi Dress
Chiara Boni La Petite Robe
Zesika Twisted Halter Trumpet Gown
Chiara Boni La Petite Robe
Ankita Draped Floral-Print Halter Gown
Chiara Boni La Petite Robe
Sugar Shimmer Mermaid Gown
Chiara Boni La Petite Robe
Noori Backless Draped Mermaid Gown
Chiara Boni La Petite Robe
Komsany Splendid Gown
Chiara Boni La Petite Robe
Etani Plisse Drop-Waist Halter Gown
Chiara Boni La Petite Robe
Hebana Halter Rosette Gown
Chiara Boni La Petite Robe
Hand-Sketched Floral Cowl-Neck Gown
Cinq à Sept
Drina Sleeveless Satin Wrap Gown
Cinq à Sept
Amberly Bow Gown
Cinq à Sept
Luma Silk Tassel Maxi Dress
Cinq à Sept
Amanda Chiffon-Draped Mermaid Gown
Dress the Population Black Label
Fernanda Strapless Floral Applique Mermaid Gown
Dress the Population Black Label
Brittany Embroidered Floral Applique Mini Dress
Dress the Population Black Label
One-Shoulder Ruched Jersey Gown
Elie Saab
Sequined Chiffon Ruffled Strapless Tea-Length Dress
Elie Saab
Strapless Pleated Column Gown
Emporio Armani
Even more dresses
Dresses again, because the supply reflects the demand. This is still the fastest way to be dressed.
Long Sleeveless Paisley Jacquard Dress
Etro
Sheer Paisley Knit Long-Sleeve Midi Dress
Etro
Nyx Sleeveless Column Gown
FForme
Sleeveless Animal-Print Gown
Givenchy
Large Floral Sliced Volume Dress
Givenchy
Alice Beaded Floral Strapless Dress
HELSI
Sofia Strapless Beaded Floral Gown
HELSI
Victoria 3D Strapless Floral Sequin Gown
HELSI
Anita Embellished 3/4-Sleeve Trumpet Gown
Jenny Packham
Embellished Petal-Sleeve Trumpet Gown
Jenny Packham
Echo Off-Shoulder Sequined Gown
Jenny Packham
Orchid Crystal Short-Sleeve Column Gown
Jenny Packham
Mirabeau Crystal Sequined Trumpet Gown
Jenny Packham
Jessie Embellished Off-The-Shoulder Gown
Jenny Packham
Mariah V-Neck Sleeveless Jacquard A-Line Gown
Kay Unger New York
Phoebe 3/4-Sleeve Collared Poplin A-Line Gown
Kay Unger New York
Mariah Pleated Jacquard Column Gown
Kay Unger New York
Jayla Floral-Embroidered Crepe & Chiffon Gown
Kay Unger New York
Daisy One-Shoulder Organza Jacquard Gown
Kay Unger New York
Allegra V-Neck Pleated Jacquard A-Line Dress
Kay Unger New York
Faith Sleeveless One-Shoulder Gown
Kay Unger New York
Caitlin Pleated Floral Jacquard Gown
Kay Unger New York
June Sleeveless Pleated Jacquard Midi Dress
Kay Unger New York
Tess Floral-Print Chiffon Gown
Kay Unger New York
Yet more dresses
Deeper into the dresses, the shapes get more specific. These are less flexible and more memorable.
Indiana Floral Cutout Column Gown
Kay Unger New York
Annabelle Floral-Print Organza Peplum Midi Dress
Kay Unger New York
Sleeveless Draped Jersey Trumpet Gown
LAPOINTE
Long-Sleeve Double-Face Satin Ruched Tab Gown
LAPOINTE
Sheer Sequin Ruched Gown with Slit
LAPOINTE
Polka-Dot Jacquard Off-The-Shoulder Midi Dress
Lela Rose
Bobble Knit Piper Dress
Lela Rose
One-Shoulder Neckline Trumpet Gown
Mac Duggal
Feathered Jersey Halter Gown
Mac Duggal
Beaded Capelet Crepe Mermaid Gown
Mac Duggal
Evening Embellished Floral Scoop-Neck Gown
Mac Duggal
Half-Bow Bodice Trumpet Gown
Mac Duggal
Beaded Sequined Shawl Gown
Mac Duggal
Petite Strapless Floral Sequin Column Maxi Dress
Mac Duggal
Evening Crystal-Embellished Jersey Gown
Mac Duggal
Sequin Cowl Back Gown
Mac Duggal
Leena 1 Ruched Column Gown
Mac Duggal
Floral Mikado Strapless High-Low Bubble Hem Gown
Mac Duggal
Bead-Embroidered Mesh Gown
Mac Duggal
Certified Fluid Viscose Floral Jacquard Corset Dress
McQueen
Whitney Hammered Satin One-Shoulder Gown
Milly
Hana Strapless Sequin Column Maxi Dress
Milly
Nene Embroidered Off-Shoulder Maxi Dress
Milly
Strapless Textured Jacquard Draped Train Column Gown
Monique Lhuillier
The last of the dresses
The final run of dresses covers what the earlier grids left out. Worth a scroll rather than a skim.
Strapless Draped-Train Bubble Jacquard Column Gown
Monique Lhuillier
Elisabeth Pleated Floral-Print Halter Midi Dress
NICHOLAS
Strapless Crystal-Embellished Crepe Fit-&-Flare Gown
Naeem Khan
Liana Halter Gown
One33 Social
Asymmetric Draped Off-The-Shoulder Column Gown
Oscar de la Renta
Pearly Embroidered Bustier Column Gown
Oscar de la Renta
Short-Sleeve Multi Floral Knit Midi Dress
Oscar de la Renta
Strapless Palm Raffia Embroidered Fringe Gown
Oscar de la Renta
Long-Sleeve Draped Satin Jersey Gown
Oscar de la Renta
Short-Sleeve Signature Sequined Column Gown
Pamella Roland
Sleeveless Ruched Chiffon Cape Gown
Pamella Roland
Asymmetric Off-The-Shoulder Metallic Jacquard Gown
Pamella Roland
Strapless Beaded Tulle Column Gown
Pamella Roland
Embroidered Tulle Halter Gown
Pamella Roland
Liquid Organza Off-The-Shoulder Slit Gown
Pamella Roland
Embellished Mikado Silk Strapless Gown
Pamella Roland
Alonna Strapless Leather Dress
Proenza Schouler
Long-Sleeve Stretch Lace Jersey Maxi Dress
Rabanne
Layered Lace Maxi Dress
Rabanne
Maddie Draped Off-The-Shoulder Column Gown
Rachel Gilbert
Amaris Long-Sleeve Capelet Column Gown
Rachel Gilbert
Chilton Satin Halter Evening Dress
Ralph Lauren Collection
Virna Pleated Lamé Cocktail Dress
Ralph Lauren Collection
Ashten Metallic Jersey Evening Dress
Ralph Lauren Collection
Accessories
Accessories are the part of an outfit that reads as intentional, because nobody puts on a belt by accident. This is where personal taste shows up.
Also in the edit
The rest of the edit resists a neat category, which is usually where the more interesting things hide. Worth a scroll rather than a skim.
Evening Embellished Mesh Cap-Sleeve Gown
Mac Duggal
Long-Sleeve Tie-Neck Argyle Silk Midi Dress
Oscar de la Renta
Theresa Sequined Halter Gown
Ramy Brook
Jasmine Backless Plunging Gown
Ramy Brook
Samantha Sequin-Embellished Column Gown
Ramy Brook
Angel Strapless Sequin A-Line Gown
Ramy Brook
Karma Strapless Draped Gown
Ramy Brook
Catrin Draped Deep V-Neck Gown
Ramy Brook
Jacquard Bustier Gown
Rene Ruiz Collection
Aireliene Embroidered Maxi Dress
Retrofête
Magnolia Satin Halter Dress
Retrofête
Pleated Off-Shoulder Satin Column Gown
Rickie Freeman for Teri Jon
Floral-Print Chiffon Halter Gown
Rickie Freeman for Teri Jon
Off-Shoulder Metallic Jacquard Mermaid Gown
Rickie Freeman for Teri Jon
Off-Shoulder Jacquard Column Gown
Rickie Freeman for Teri Jon
Ruffle-Trim Stretch Crepe Gown
Rickie Freeman for Teri Jon
3/4-Sleeve Taffeta Shirtdress Gown
Rickie Freeman for Teri Jon
One-Shoulder Jacquard Side-Ruffle Gown
Rickie Freeman for Teri Jon
Metallic Jacquard One-Shoulder Side-Ruffle Gown
Rickie Freeman for Teri Jon
Floral-Embellished Tulle Strapless Gown
Rickie Freeman for Teri Jon
One-Shoulder Metallic Jacquard Column Gown
Rickie Freeman for Teri Jon
Asymmetric Sequin Lace Gown
Rickie Freeman for Teri Jon
Cap-Sleeve Embroidered Tulle A-Line Gown
Rickie Freeman for Teri Jon
Belted Jacquard Shirtdress Gown
Rickie Freeman for Teri Jon
More from the edit
More of the uncategorised, and this is where the range of the source really shows.
Twist Draped Shawl Mermaid Gown
Roland Mouret
Origami Bustier Diamante Column Gown
Roland Mouret
Bonnie Satin One-Shoulder Gown
SACHIN BABI
Olivia One-Shoulder Embellished Mikado Gown
SACHIN BABI
Pearl Floral Maxi Dress
SACHIN BABI
Hanna Brocade Midi Dress
SACHIN BABI
Etienne Floral-Print Mikado Wrap Gown
SACHIN BABI
Aurora Pleated Floral-Print Mikado Gown
SACHIN BABI
Semi-Sheer Wildflower Embellished Addison Gown
SACHIN BABI
Grace Cap-Sleeve Cloque Column Gown
SACHIN BABI
Octavia Floral Jacquard Strapless Gown
SIMKHAI
Claudia Embellished Cocktail Maxi Dress
SIMKHAI
Briella 3D Floral Beaded Trumpet Gown
SIMKHAI
Ora Satin Asymmetric Drape Sleeve Gown
SIMKHAI
Beaded Rhinestone Crepe Mini Dress
SIMKHAI
Calluna Organza Gown
STAUD
Cadence Satin Maxi Dress
STAUD
Estelle Satin Tie-Neck Dress
STAUD
Estrella Draped One-Shoulder Column Gown
Sachin & Babi
Sleeveless Draped Silk Tank Dress
Saint Laurent
Fabienne Silk Long Dress
Saloni
Fabienne High-Neck Velvet Dress
Saloni
Gwen Silk Midi Dress
Saloni
Chandra Floral Ruffled Gown
Saloni
The rest of the edit
Still more that did not fit a tidy label. The breadth is the point.
Rita Tiered Ruffle Cocktail Dress
Saloni
Dory Asymmetric Strapless Gown
Shoshanna
Mercer Two-Tone Mixed Media Gown
Shoshanna
Venus Shimmer Empire Maxi Dress
Shoshanna
Dory Asymmetric Strapless Gown
Shoshanna
Dido Sequined Halter Trumpet Gown
Silvia Tcherassi
Embellished Flutter-Sleeve Satin Column Gown
Stella McCartney
Peach-Feel Silk Backless Trumpet Silhouette
TOM FORD
Crystal-Trim Backless Satin Mermaid Gown
TOM FORD
Sorella Jacquard & Taffeta Portrait Gown
Tadashi Shoji
Pleated One-Shoulder Cape Gown
Tadashi Shoji
Sleeveless Mock-Neck Bow Gown
Tadashi Shoji
Pleated Mesh & Textured Lace Midi Dress
Tadashi Shoji
Pintuck Bodycon Lace & Crepe Dress
Tadashi Shoji
Forena Embroidered Lace Crepe Trumpet Gown
Tadashi Shoji
Tiered Bishop-Sleeve Pleated Lace Gown
Tadashi Shoji
Zeka Metallic Cape Sleeve Gown
Tadashi Shoji
Massaro Embroidered Cape Gown
Tadashi Shoji
Tiered Car Wash Crepe Halter Dress
Tadashi Shoji
Draped One-Shoulder Taffeta Crepe Gown
Tadashi Shoji
Pleated Off-Shoulder Taffeta & Crepe Gown
Tadashi Shoji
Crisscross Off-The-Shoulder Shimmering Jersey Gown
Talbot Runhof
Rayna Draped One-Shoulder High-Low Gown
Theia
Teresa Draped Strapless Gown
Theia
Everything else worth seeing
Another run of the things that sit between categories.
Cressida Rhinestone-Trim Halter Column Gown
Theia
Gilda Draped Rose Strapless Organza Gown
Theia
Colby Peplum Floral Lace Column Gown
Theia
Zula Beaded Sweetheart Gown
Theia
x Helen Frankenthaler Reverie Strapless Silk Gown
Ulla Johnson
Campiona Draped Silk Dress
Valentino Garavani
Long-Sleeve Draped Satin Maxi Dress
Valentino Garavani
Cowl-Neck Sleeveless Draped Silk Maxi Dress
Valentino Garavani
Feather-Trim Draped Lace Long-Sleeve Maxi Dress
Valentino Garavani
Asymmetric Draped Satin Long-Sleeve Gown
Valentino Garavani
Draped Open-Back Gown
Versace
Embellished Silk-Blend Gown
Versace
Midi Dress
Victoria Beckham
Gathered Waist Flutter-Sleeve Satin Gown
Victoria Beckham
Gathered Waist Flutter-Sleeve Satin Gown
Victoria Beckham
Magdalena Draped Maxi Dress
ZANKOV
Germaine Strapless Stretch Satin Column Gown
ZHIVAGO
Beloved Deep V-Neck Stretch Satin Gown
ZHIVAGO
The Goddess By Ruth Gown
ZHIVAGO
Ascent Maxi Dress
Zimmermann
Our honest take
The code still exists, it is just being read more generously. That is more interesting than abolishing it would have been.
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