Check the bezel screws and the bracelet before anything else. On a pre-owned Panthère, even links, flush screws and a clasp that closes with a clean click tell you more than the photo does. Ask for the box and papers when they exist, and look for a sharp case edge: the medium W25028B5 is described with an unpolished gold bezel, which is exactly what you want to see.

The medium size is the one I would put on most women. The steel W25054P5 has a date window and a link bracelet, and the new medium steel model has a silvered Roman dial and the blue cabochon crown. If you want warmth, the two-tone W25027B6, the Ref. 1100 with its gold-framed dial, and the new medium two-tone all have the steel-and-gold look that works with jeans and a white tee.

The two cream-dial watches, the 1987 reference 187949 and the 83949, are the vintage pair. The cream dial reads softer than white, and I would wear either with a camel coat or an old cotton shirt. Fit matters too: these are 27mm cases, so try them on and make sure the bracelet sits without pinching.

What I would skip: a pre-owned watch with a bracelet that looks stretched or a crystal with deep scratches across the dial.

Gold changes the whole mood, so be honest about how often you will wear it. The large WGPN0051 is 31mm by 42mm in 18k yellow gold, and at 6.71mm thick it is thinner than it looks. The small WGPN0008, from 2021, is 23mm by 30mm and water resistant to 30 meters, so I would not worry about hand washing. The large ivory-dial gold watch has a date window and a smooth bezel, which is the quiet version of a gold watch.

For diamonds, the two medium steel watches, W4PN0018 and the 2024 W4PN0008, each carry 44 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel, so they sparkle while staying practical for every day. The 8669 in yellow gold adds diamonds on the case sides too, which is more evening than office. The new small yellow gold model with diamonds is the same idea in a petite size.

The 4025 rose gold watch, at 23mm with a white dial, is my pick if yellow gold feels too much. It looks warm against skin and works with a navy blazer or a slip dress. Before buying any pre-owned Cartier Panthère watch in gold, ask for the hallmark photo and check that the diamonds sit evenly, with none missing from the bezel.

What I would skip: stacking another bracelet right next to a gold watch. Let it sit alone.

Pick the size before the metal. Hold your wrist out, decide whether the watch should disappear under a cuff or show up in every photo, then choose small, medium or large. Steel for daily wear, two-tone if you want warmth, gold when it is the one thing you are wearing.

After that, ask for the condition, the box and papers, and look at the bezel, the bracelet and the clasp in person if you can. A pre-owned piece that checks out is worth the wait.

Toussaint was elegant, not fashionable, and I think that is the best test: if you still want it next season, that is your Panthère. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together Cartier Santos and The Cartier Watch for Women.