The lug sole spent decades on hiking boots before shoe designers noticed it solved the actual problem with a traditional penny loafer, which is that a thin leather sole offers no cushioning and even less grip on a wet sidewalk. Whistles Ames keeps the classic loafer shape almost entirely intact and just stacks height and tread underneath it, which is the clearest example of the trend in its simplest form. Tory Burch Classic Lug pushes the sole further, with a deeper tread pattern that reads as sportier from the side. Both are proof that the silhouette on top barely had to change, the sole is where all the actual redesign happened.

Veronica Beard Penny Lug keeps a smooth leather upper and puts all the texture in the sole underneath. KURT GEIGER LONDON Studded Chunky covers the upper itself in metal studs, so the toughness is visible before you even look down.

What chunky loafers are genuinely good at is solving the actual mechanical failure of a traditional flat, which is no cushioning and no traction, and a thick lug sole fixes both without needing a heel. What the category is oversold on is versatility, a deep lug tread does not read as dressy no matter how refined the leather above it is, and pairing one with a suit is a compromise dressed up as a styling choice. The studded and lightly treaded versions here are not interchangeable either, one is a going-out shoe and one is a walk-to-work shoe, and confusing them is the most common styling mistake with this shoe. If you take one thing away, match the depth of the tread to the occasion, a shallow lug like the Whistles works under trousers, while something as aggressive as the Kurt Geiger London wants to be the statement of the outfit rather than a background piece.