In 1905, in Leicester, a company called Joseph Leeson & Sons started making Gola, and the thing it was best known for was handmade leather football boots. Nobody was thinking about the pavement yet. That is the part I like about Gola sneakers: they began as kit for people who actually had to run.

The sneaker side grew out of the sport side. In 1968 a designer named Fred Dilley made the first Harrier, a white leather upper with a green wingflash and a green suede toecap, and the factory was soon turning out 6,000 pairs a week. Gola also gets credit for being the first to shorten "training shoes" to "trainers". Then came the slump at the end of the eighties, a new owner in the mid-nineties, and a revival that put the old shapes back in front of people who had never seen them the first time.

For October I would start with the Hawk and Viper family, because they are the easiest way into the brand. The Hawk Sneaker in white with green mist suede stripes and gold logo is the court-sneaker version, tidy and a little sporty, and the off-white Hawk with bone overlays and a perforated toe is the softer cousin. The Hawk 86 in otter gum is water-repellent suede on a gum bumper sole, which is the one I would pick for wet leaves. The Hawk 83 has mesh paneling, hiking-style laces and orange spice accents, so it works with a long skirt and thick socks.

The Viper is the 70s-leaning one. I would take the Viper in cameo pink with its short T-toe to wear with straight-leg jeans and a gray knit, and the white Viper with red stripes with a trench. One practical tip: gum soles pick up dirt fast, so wipe them with a damp cloth before you put the pair away.

The Elan has been around longer than most people guess: Gola launched the first Elan track shoe in 1971, and it later developed into one of the brand's best-loved trainer designs. It came back in 2023, which is why it feels both old and new on a shelf. The shape is low, light and slightly narrow, so it suits people who dislike a bulky toe.

Start from the plain ones. The Elan in bone suede with white stripes and an old-school gum sole is the one I would wear with cropped trousers and a camel coat. The dark blue Elan with an off white stripe and shock pink accents is for days when your outfit is all neutrals and needs one loud detail.

Then there are the prints. The Elan Safari in leopard and mocha with gold and terracotta stripes, the Tropic with an off white stripe and a contrast heel tab, and the Savanna in cheetah dots with green mist all read as animal print used like a neutral. The Elan Glitz in bone and gold, or in red, pink and coral, is shinier and I would keep it to one metallic detail per outfit.

The Tennis Mark Cox is the odd one out: canvas, a ridged bumper toe and soft terry lining. Fitting-room test: press your thumb at the toe and check there is room to flex before you commit to the size.

What I would skip: the metallic Glitz pairs with other shiny pieces, since the sneaker already does that job.

Court sneakers are where the brand's sporting past shows most. The Harrier itself was a multi-sport shoe, and this group keeps that clean, flat, no-fuss look. Gola's own history calls it a "top 3 sports brand" in the seventies, exporting to 67 countries, which is a lot of gym floors.

The Badminton is the simplest pair here. The Windsor wine suede version with an off white stripe and gum sole is a good autumn color: it sits next to denim, gray flannel and black tights without arguing. The off-white canvas Badminton with a gold stripe is lighter and lower-key, the kind I would wear with a slip skirt.

The Grandslam is the tidier court shape. I would pick the all-white Grandslam with a gum sole as a base pair, the Trident with green mist and brown rose overlays when I want some color, and the green mist suede one for a pale trouser. The Grandslam Elite adds light caramel and leopard mocha panels for people who like a bit more going on.

The Stadium '86 in otter suede with chalk pink accents and the white leather Stadia with gold logo are the two that dress up easiest. Buying test: look at the stripe stitching and the heel counter, and flex the toe box to see it crease evenly.

What I would skip: pale suede for a rainy week, unless you spray it first. Suede protector spray takes five minutes and matters more than any cleaning kit later.

The nineties look came back with chunkier soles, and Gola's answer is a family with names that sound like weather. The Torpedo is the everyday one, with breathable cotton canvas lining. The tan suede Torpedo with an off white stripe and plum collar looks good with brown trousers, and the candy pink and off white pair with a windsor wine stripe is a friendly spring-in-autumn choice.

The Tornado has serrated stripes and a gum wedge sole, built for park strolls and weekend hangouts. The sea mist teal Tornado, the off white perforated Zephyr with brown rose stripes, and the Tornado 88 in moonlight blue suede with pink are all gentle pastel versions. The silver Tornado Lace has suede overlays and mesh, and I would wear it with black tights and a long coat so the silver stays the only shiny thing.

The Daytona Blaze is the chunkiest, with a raised platform sole. The gold metallic one with khaki and coral pink stripes is bold, and the off-white suede and nylon version with brown rose stripes is the calmer pick. Gola's revival brought back old styles with a few updates, so a modern wedge with an old stripe feels natural here.

Fitting-room test: walk up a flight of stairs in the pair and see whether the wedge sole feels comfortable at the ball of the foot.

What I would skip: the platform if you plan to walk across a city all day. Pick a flat Viper for that.

Gola was not the only name to leave a mark on 70s and 80s feet, and a pair or two from its neighbors helps the shoe shelf look less like a single-brand shop. Here the common thread is a low profile, suede and a thin sole.

The adidas Handball Spezial in maroon suede with cream and gold accents is the richest color here, and I would wear it with gray wool trousers. The Samba OG in cloud white with black serrated stripes and a gum sole is the crisp one, good with straight jeans. Over at Puma, the Speedcat OG in brown has a racing silhouette and the Palermo in white suede with lavender accents has a classic T-toe, the one to pair with a denim midi skirt.

New Balance gives you the 327 in stone pink with a lace-to-sole N logo, and the 574 in black linen cow print for people who want a runner with some humor. Saucony's Trainer 80 in black and white and the Racer 80 in quartz and ivory are slimmer and more reserved, and I would wear them with a pleated skirt and thick socks.

Buying test: with suede, run a hand across the surface and look for even nap, then check the sole glue line at the toe.

What I would skip: a second pair in the same tone as your Gola. Pick a contrast, such as maroon next to the white Hawk.

I would begin with the Viper in off white and gum, then add an Elan in suede for the winter months, and a Tornado only if I knew I wanted the extra height. Keep one other brand in the mix for variety.

That is the order I would go in. One flat pair for everyday walking, one color pair that picks up a shade already in your closet, and only then the platform or the neighbors from other brands. Fewer pairs worn often will look better than five that sit by the door.

Wipe the gum, spray the suede, and let them air out. A company that started on Leicester football pitches in 1905 should be fine with a damp cloth and a bit of attention. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together Brown Sneakers and Barefoot Shoes.