Beth Levine was known for treating the shoe as a place for invention, and the house became associated with bringing boots into couture dressing. The new ankle and over-the-knee shapes keep that history present through leather, suede, stripes and a heel that changes the proportion of a simple trouser.

Levine’s pumps and mules are less about restraint than about a clear silhouette. Pointed toes, bow details, textured leather and satin make them the kind of shoes that can rescue a plain outfit, provided the rest of the look is willing to stay out of the way.

Our honest take: Herbert Levine is for someone who wants the shoes to have a backstory and a little mischief. Do not buy the highest heel because the name has history if you will not wear it past the mirror. If you take one thing away, start with the shape you can walk in, then let the material do the dramatic work.