Ileana Makri

Ileana Makri

Ileana Makri launched her eponymous jewelry line in 1998 after studying design at the Gemological Institute of America and returning to the gemstone language she had loved since childhood. Her Athens-based work is made with local artisans and balances fine materials with a sense of movement, from cord and beads to diamonds, enamel and colored stones. The collection reads like modern talismans rather than a parade of formal jewelry.

The necklace as talisman

Makri’s first collection was the minimal Classic line, quickly picked up by Barneys after its 1998 launch. The necklaces here keep that directness but add aquamarine, tourmaline, diamonds and cord, making the pieces feel personal before they feel ceremonial.

Small scale, sharp feeling

Makri has described jewelry as a form of microsculpture, which explains the smaller pieces. Rings and earrings use spiral forms, serpents, color and negative space to create something legible at close range, where fine jewelry should not need a spotlight to work.

Our honest take

Our honest take: this is jewelry for someone who wants an idea, not just a stone. Choose the piece that gives you a private point of reference and do not dilute it with too many competing charms. If you take one thing away, wear the talisman often enough that it stops feeling like an occasion.