Kallmeyer

Kallmeyer

Kallmeyer has been a downtown New York institution for over a decade and only recently became an industry one. Daniella Kallmeyer, born in South Africa and trained at London College of Fashion, worked at Alexander McQueen and Proenza Schouler before launching her label in 2012 at twenty five with about seven thousand dollars. Today it is a top brand across Phia and the industry

Thirteen years of being early

A one month pop-up on Orchard Street became two months, then six, then permanent, and the store has anchored the brand since 2019. A second flagship opened on Madison Avenue, which is a long way from waiting tables at the Plaza to fund the first collection.

Shirting as the modular unit

Kallmeyer describes the collection as a modular wardrobe rather than a set of seasons, and the tops are the interchangeable part. They are drafted to be worn with everything else in the range, which is a harder design brief than it sounds.

Trousers, seasonless on purpose

The brand has always argued against speed, prioritising tailoring that survives past the season it was shown in. That position looked stubborn in 2012 and looks obvious now.

Dresses with quiet sensuality

Her CFDA citation uses the phrase consideration, strength and quiet sensuality, which is a fair description of how these are cut. Nothing is trying to be a moment.

Jackets and the case for a real suit

Tailoring is what she studied and what she is best at. The jackets are the reason a very specific New York woman has been loyal to this label for a decade.

Skirts to complete the set

Everything here is designed to be recombined rather than worn as a look. That is the modular idea working as intended.

Our honest take

Kallmeyer says her front row is her clientele rather than paid celebrities, and the brand grew accordingly: slowly, then all at once. Thirteen years in, it is still the most useful tailoring in the city.