A new wave of independent jewelry labels is making pieces with real shape, from sculpted silver to reworked pearls. This edit gathers designs from Sophie Buhai, Completedworks, Paola Sighinolfi, Lié Studio and more, grouped by the look each one does best. Pick the label that matches how you already dress and build from there.
Modern Jewelry Labels Worth Knowing
Four Labels to Start With
If these names are new to you, begin with one piece from each. Sophie Buhai's red-tasselled Cleo earrings, Completedworks' recycled silver necklace with cubic zirconia and spinel, Paola Sighinolfi's gold-plated Grace pearl necklace and Lié Studio's slim sterling silver Evelyn earrings show how different the approaches can be.
Silver, Set With Stone
Silver paired with a dark or bright stone is the easiest way into this group. Sophie Buhai's Night Sky necklace strings sterling silver with pearl and onyx, and Agmes, founded by sisters Morgan Lang and Jaclyn Solomon in 2016, sets onyx into its silver Tess brooch. Lié Studio's Lola earrings and Juju Vera's Lula cuff with citrine add weight without feeling fussy.
Stone, Resin and Colour
Coloured stone and resin keep these pieces from feeling too precious. Le Sundial's Inès earrings pair green aventurine with pearl, while Completedworks' Depths of Time necklace strings agate beads on silver plate. Paola Sighinolfi's Kabala ring sets turquoise in gold plate, and Julietta's Nera cuff mixes ivory resin with onyx.
Pearls, Reworked
These labels treat pearls as a material to play with rather than a strand to inherit. Sophie Bille Brahe's Grand Rosette and Bow earrings arrange pearls in gold, and Le Sundial hangs a pearl beneath lapis lazuli. Julietta's Perla necklace mixes pearls with crystal beads for something a little more graphic.
Gold, From Vermeil to 18 Karat
For something to wear every day, look at the gold pieces. Fernando Jorge, the Brazilian designer now based in London who launched his fine jewelry line in 2010, makes the Signal necklace in 18-karat gold with coloured stones, and Tabayer's Oera and Sheaf bangles come in 18-karat white gold with diamonds. Agmes' Marta brooch in recycled gold vermeil is a softer way in.
Our honest take
Contemporary jewelry works best when it has a point of view, so choose by shape and material rather than by name alone. If you take one thing away, let it be that one strong piece worn often does more than a drawer of small ones. Silver with stone is the most versatile starting point, since it sits well next to both the gold and silver you already own. Pearls from these designers feel modern because of how they are set, so they work with a T-shirt as easily as a dress. What we would skip is stacking several statement pieces at once; let one lead and keep the rest quiet. And if you are unsure, start with earrings, which are the simplest way to test whether a label's style suits you.
