Dresses are where Rosie Assoulin's training under Oscar de la Renta and Alber Elbaz at Lanvin shows up most clearly, in the way exaggerated volume still gets tailored down to something a person can actually move in. That balance, romantic silhouette without losing function, has been the brand's calling card since its Resort 2014 debut. It is eveningwear built by someone who apprenticed under people who took construction seriously.

Tops carry Assoulin's interest in shape into a more everyday register, which tracks with her 2019 launch of By Any Other Name, a secondary line built specifically for more wearable daily pieces. The playfulness stays, even when the drama gets turned down. It is the daywear half of a brand best known for its eveningwear reputation.

Skirts lean into the volume and bold color that earned Assoulin the CFDA's Swarovski Award in 2015, proof that a young American label could build a full aesthetic out of exaggerated shape without it reading as costume. The Brooklyn-raised designer has talked about training in jewelry design before fashion, and there is a similar attention to how a shape catches light and movement. It is architecture worn as clothing.

Trousers and shorts are the most pragmatic corner of Assoulin's aesthetic, the reliably practical half of a design philosophy she has described as sitting between the romantically fantastical and the functional. Given her early apprenticeship under Roxanne Assoulin and later time at Oscar de la Renta, the fit and construction get as much attention as the silhouette. Even the simpler pieces still carry some sense of shape.

The wider collection reflects a decade-plus of a label that started with a single Resort 2014 show and picked up a CFDA award, a Swarovski Collective win and a Woolmark Prize finalist nod along the way. Assoulin's route into fashion, through jewelry apprenticeship, a Lanvin stint in Paris and time at Oscar de la Renta, still informs how the pieces are put together. It is a small American house with an unusually well-credentialed design education behind it.

Rosie Assoulin's design education, apprenticing under Roxanne Assoulin, then Oscar de la Renta, then Alber Elbaz's Lanvin studio, is genuinely unusual and it shows in construction quality that a lot of similarly playful labels don't match. The volume and color can read as occasion-only for anyone shopping for something quieter. But as a specific, checkable point of view, it holds up better than most labels this size.