Ruohan Nie founded her label in 2021 after studying at Parsons and working with The Row, then brought the first collection to Shanghai Fashion Week. The dress and blouse selection shows why the brand is often discussed through quiet luxury: the silhouettes are spare, but silk chenille, wool gauze and cotton voile give them movement. Look for the pieces that let one material carry the whole impression, rather than adding accessories to compensate.

The second half of the collection is about proportion and touch. Cashmere coats and skirts, silk organza and a fine sweater make a case for dressing by texture, while the scarf is the smallest way into the same language. Nie has spoken about sourcing fabrics according to their qualities, with silk and cashmere from China and other materials developed across Japan and Italy.

Our honest take: Ruohan is for someone who notices the difference between minimal and merely blank. The clothes are quiet, but the long lines and slightly unusual drapes keep them from disappearing into a neutral wardrobe. If you take one thing away, pair one fluid piece with something structurally simple and stop there.