Lak grew up between Malaysia, Gabon, Scotland and the Netherlands, trained at ArtEZ and Central Saint Martins and designed at Dries Van Noten before Sies Marjan. Sanderlak anchors each year to a single place, which sets the palette, the textures and the mood, starting with Los Angeles.

The collections are grounded in menswear and designed to be worn across genders, with shirts, trousers, jackets and coats rather than spectacle. Production is in Portugal and the range is deliberately wearable, which is the clearest break from the old label.

Sies Marjan was remembered for colour, and this is a quieter, more considered project. It is also the rare comeback where the designer has clearly thought about why the first version did not survive.