Santoni began in 1975 in Corridonia, in the Marche region of Italy. Andrea Santoni and his wife Rosa founded it, and Andrea knew the work from the inside, having started as a leather cutter, then a stitcher, then production manager. The company began in the family garage with five employees and the goal of scaling artisanal shoemaking. Today there are more than 400 shoemakers in Corridonia. The signature is velatura, a Renaissance-era technique of layering watercolor-like dyes by hand and buffing them to a glassy sheen. Hand-sewn seams and the antique finish called anticatura are the other hallmarks. You can see the polish in the Audrey 80 patent leather pumps and the patent slingback buckle pumps, and the Serena 105 heeled sandals are the formal option. The Florinda and Carla penny loafer pumps blend a loafer with a 65mm heel, a good way to wear a heel to work. The Hadeel ankle boots, the Fortune suede booties and the Fleeces mid boots are the cold weather group. For brown pairs, I keep a list of brown heels with a personal point of view.

The second group moves toward flat and low shoes, where the house made its name. Santoni is famous for double-buckle monk shoes, and the penny loafers here are its relaxed side, in suede, tumbled leather and calfskin. The Airglow, Carla and Detroit styles are the ones I would compare first. A practical test: try a loafer with the socks or tights you plan to wear it with, since the fit through the heel changes completely. The Suede buckle equestrian boots and the suede riding boot are the sharp options for fall, and the Detroit desert boots are the casual ones. The Marta leopard block heel booties and the Adri leopard-print calf hair pumps are the bolder pair. What I would skip is wearing leopard pumps with a printed skirt; let one pattern lead. The DBS Oly mixed leather low-top sneakers close the group. For jeans, my guide to what shoes to wear with jeans covers hems and loafers, and the polished penny loafer edit goes deeper on the shape.

If I could pick one pair, it would be the Carla suede loafer, worn with plain trousers so the finish gets the attention. Then I would add the Audrey patent pump for dressed up days, and a black heel guide is what I would read before choosing. The Fortune booties would take care of the colder months. Santoni celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2025 with a new store in New York and an Assouline book, and the shoes still look like the work of people who like leather. For a chunkier look, the lug-sole loafer edit is a good next read.

For more in the same spirit, take a look at ATP Atelier Shoes and Balenciaga Shoes and Bags.