Satin describes how a fabric is woven, not what it is made of, which is why two satin dresses can behave completely differently. A silk charmeuse or a satin-backed crepe has weight, hangs from the shoulder or hip and moves as one piece. A light polyester satin has the same shine and none of the drape, so it clings and shows every line underneath. Weight is the thing to judge, and you can judge it by holding the garment up by one point and seeing whether it falls or floats. Anything that floats will cling when you wear it.

High-shine satin photographs bright and shows every crease. A matte or crepe-backed satin gives the same fluidity with less glare, which is usually the more wearable choice for an evening that involves being photographed. On cut, a bias or a straight column skims; anything fitted through the hip in satin will show more than you intend. What goes underneath matters more here than in any other fabric, since satin reveals seams and edges. A smooth, seamless base layer in a colour close to your skin solves nearly all of it, and is worth sorting before the event rather than on the night.

Satin is the fabric where price and quality track most closely, and the cheap version really does look cheap, mostly because it has no weight. Our advice is to test the drape in the shop by holding it up rather than judging it on a hanger, where everything looks good. We would also say that matte satin is the more useful buy, since it works for more occasions and forgives creasing. If you take one thing away, it is to choose for weight rather than shine, because weight is what makes satin hang, and hanging is the entire reason to wear it.