In 1981, Yvon Chouinard of Patagonia went to Malden Mills in Massachusetts, now Polartec, looking for a tougher fleece. Seven years later, in 1988, the first Retro Pile jacket arrived with the thicker, fluffy pile moved to the outside. That is the family tree the modern sherpa jacket grew from, and it is part of why a fuzzy coat still reads a little bit mountain hut.

Sherpa itself is just that pile fleece under another name: a polyester faux shearling with a smooth knit side and a textured fleecy side. Pile went through a dated phase, then the retro-outdoor revival brought it back. My favorite version of the idea is the one where the fuzz stays hidden, so I started with Levi's, because its denim truckers put the sherpa on the inside.

The 90s Sherpa Trucker is the one to try on first, and it comes in medium wash, light wash and ecru. All three are oversized, with a cream sherpa collar and sherpa through the body, so size down if you want it closer. The Collarless Cropped Sherpa Trucker in dark wash is the sharper cut, good over a slip dress or high-rise jeans. The camel Fleece and Denim Bomber is the softer, more casual pick, and the UGG Frankie in camel is the teddy-textured one for when you want the collar and chest pockets without the denim.

Here is the practical bit: wear the jacket with the thickest sweater you own before you decide. Sherpa adds bulk through the shoulder and sleeve, and a trucker that looks perfect over a tee can feel tight over knitwear.

Brush it and hang it. That is the care rule for high-pile fleece, which matts if it gets folded into a drawer, and it is worth knowing before you buy anything this plush. The jackets here are the full sherpa ones, no denim shell, just fuzz from collar to hem.

The Abercrombie full-zips are the clean ones: espresso brown with a stand collar and side pockets, and a black textured version with zip pockets. Either one goes over leggings and a long tee without any fuss. L.L.Bean's Sherpa Fleece Jacket comes in golden brown with suede-look trim, in a burgundy heart print for something playful, and in navy with quilted nylon panels, which is the one with a firmer shell.

For color, the Roxy Everest in blush pink has a hood, and the Varley Kalyn is cream with a red colorblock panel and a snap placket. The camel Daisy Street borg jacket is boxy, and I would wear it open over a hoodie.

At the fitting room, close the zip or snaps and lift your arms. High-pile fleece bunches under the arm, and you want to see it settle, not ride up. Run your hand against the pile too: it should spring back.

What I would skip: the pale colors if you are carrying a bag on one shoulder all day, because rubbing will flatten the pile.

Fleece did not stay in outdoor shops. Aaron Feuerstein, who ran Malden Mills, chose not to patent polar fleece, so many makers could produce it, and that is why you now find sherpa in a half-zip sweatshirt as easily as in a jacket.

The YPB On The Go half-zips are the sweatshirt version, with a kangaroo pocket: light blue with a brown fair isle band, and a burgundy one with contrast piping. They are what I would wear for a walk with a coffee. Columbia is the outdoor name here, and the Fire Side II in gray is the soft, high-pile full zip with a stand collar and zip pockets. The Lodge in red has a smooth fleece panel on the lower body, which cuts the bulk at the hip. The Boundless Discovery in gray with a sage placket is the quiet one.

For pullovers, L.L.Bean's plum Sherpa Fleece Pullover has a snap placket and stand collar, the Levi's Gemma quarter-zip in burgundy is relaxed and plush, and the Airblaster half-zip in mint with daisies and a lavender chest pocket is the loud, fun one.

Test the neck. Zip it all the way and see whether the collar sits up or flops, because a pullover with a floppy neck stops getting worn quickly. Check the pocket depth too, since your phone should not sag.

What I would skip: a half-zip with a very thick pile under a puffy coat, since the two fight for space.

Cropped is where sherpa gets interesting. The Retro Pile cut sat right at the waistline, and the archives team told the writer at Outside it came from a prototype made for Chouinard's own build. Short sherpa has been a good idea for a long time.

The Levi's Collarless Cropped Sherpa Trucker in black is the sleekest one here, lined in sherpa and short enough to wear with a high-rise skirt. See U Soon makes a short burgundy floral sherpa jacket with a sherpa collar and button front, which is the pretty one. The Free People Cool and Cozy Teddy in cobalt blue is cropped with a spread collar and a zip, and it is the one that gets noticed. BDG's Forest in red print has a hood and ribbed hem.

H&M carries the plain black and taupe teddy jackets: the Boxy Teddy with snaps and patch pockets, the Collarless one, and the Stand-Collar Zip in taupe. The Brixton Delilah is a cream and tan plaid shacket, with a snap front and patch pockets, and it is the one I would wear as a shirt layer.

Hold your arms straight up in the fitting room. A cropped jacket should stay at the waistband, not drift to your ribs. Then check where the hem meets your trousers.

What I would skip: the cropped hooded ones if you wear your hair long and a scarf, since the hood and the collar crowd each other.

Sherpa works best when it is paired with something firmer. The Levi's Original Sherpa Trucker comes in corduroy as well as denim: dark brown, dusty pink and olive brown, each with the cream collar and sherpa lining. Cord has a rib that holds its shape, so the jacket looks sharper than a plain fleece.

Levi's also makes a short gray Quilted Faux Fur Teddy with a funnel neck and zip front, and a Reversible Faux Shearling in brown suede-look, with the sherpa on the reverse side. The reversible is two jackets in one, which helps in a small closet. Columbia's Switchback II is a plum hooded nylon jacket lined in sherpa fleece, and it is the one for a damp day, since it is water-resistant.

Zella's Scenic is a chocolate faux shearling with quilted nylon panels and a zip front, and BLANKNYC's Staring Contest is a camel faux suede jacket with cream fleece trim at collar, pockets and cuffs. Wear that one with straight jeans and brown boots.

Turn the jacket inside out when you shop, or check the lining at the cuff. The sherpa should be dense and even, with no bald patches, and seams should not pull at the pile.

What I would skip: a mixed-texture jacket over a knit with a lot of texture itself. One busy surface at a time.

I would begin with the trucker, because it does the most. Try the medium wash 90s Sherpa Trucker over your thickest sweater, and if it fits, stop there.

If you want a softer, plainer layer, go to the teddy half-zip or one of the Columbia full zips and wear it for walks. Keep the cropped H&M or Levi's piece for a day when you want a shorter line over a skirt or high-rise jeans.

Brush it, hang it, and let it do its job. Chouinard started with a roll of fuzzy fabric that pilled after one wash, and look where it went. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together Fleece Jacket and The Leather Jacket That Works With Everything You Own.