Sonia Petroff made statement belts part of the evening wardrobe in the 1960s and 1970s, after designing costume jewelry and private pieces for houses including Valentino, Nina Ricci and Balmain. The current belts draw on that history through enamel, resin, woven cord and sculptural buckles. They are not a finishing touch so much as the point around which the outfit can gather.

The jewelry keeps the same appetite for color and surprise. Maria Leoni-Sceti revived the brand in 2018 after discovering an archive of more than 800 vintage pieces, then translated its flora, fauna and surreal motifs into new work made by Italian artisans. Earrings, brooches, cuffs and necklaces are small, but they do not behave modestly.

Our honest take: Sonia Petroff is for someone who thinks an accessory should have a story before it has a trend. The pieces are too expressive for a disappearing act, but that is their usefulness when a simple dress needs a pulse. If you take one thing away, wear one sculptural accent at a time and give it room to be strange.