The lemaire croissant bag works because of the near-total absence of anything applied to it. The Brown Fortune Croissant Bag and the Off-White Fortune Croissant Bag are single curved panels with a shoulder strap and a zip, and nothing else. The Gray Medium Croissant Bag scales that up without adding detail. The Gray and Khaki Mini Fortune Croissant Bags shrink it down, where the curve becomes more pronounced relative to the body. The Brown Studs Dots Mini version is the only piece here with any surface decoration, and even that is minimal. Lemaire is arguing that a shape can be a logo, and it mostly wins the argument.

The range splits across two materials that give completely different results. The Beige Fortune Croissant Filt Bag and the Brown and Black Croissant Filt Bag use wool felt, which is soft, matte and will compress and pill over time in a way some people find appealing. The leather versions hold the crescent line much more crisply and keep their shape when empty. Felt makes the bag lighter and more casual. Leather makes it read as a proper investment in the shape rather than a seasonal experiment.

This is one of the few genuinely new bag silhouettes of the last decade, which is rare in a category that mostly reissues its own archive. The leather Fortune in brown is the version to own because the curve needs some structure to read properly. The felt versions are lovely and will soften into something much slouchier than you bought. The minis are charming and hold very little, as always. If you take one thing away, it is that a bag with no hardware and no logo relies entirely on its outline, so any softening of that curve takes the design with it, and that makes the material choice more consequential here than in most bags.