The satin slip skirt only works because of a cutting trick Madeleine Vionnet pioneered in the early 1920s. Cut on the diagonal, the cloth falls over the body instead of clinging to it. This is how to choose the length, the shine and the sweater that keeps it from feeling like lingerie.
The Satin Slip Skirt and the Bias Cut That Made It Possible
A cut that changed how cloth falls
The slip skirt owes its drape to Madeleine Vionnet, who pioneered the bias cut in the early 1920s, according to the V&A. Cutting fabric on the diagonal lets it stretch and skim the body with no darts or seams. A century later, the same trick is why a good satin skirt moves like liquid. After seasons of denim and cargo, the slip skirt is the piece that makes a plain sweater look like a decision. It is also the easiest way to dress up a day without changing your shoes.
Look for the bias
Hold the skirt up and look at the seams. If they run straight down, the skirt is cut on the grain and will feel stiff. A true bias cut has a diagonal drape and a slight swing. Vince and AQUA do a clean satin midi, Alice and Olivia a softer one with a hint of slit, and Jenni Kayne a more relaxed version. Try it on with a thin knit and see how the fabric moves when you walk. If it clings at the hip, go up a size.
Length and color
A midi that hits mid-calf is the most flattering length. Go longer if you are tall and shorter if you want to show off a boot. Champagne, black and chocolate are the three colors worth owning. Olive and navy look rich in satin as well. Picture her in a chocolate slip skirt, an oversized gray cardigan and a pair of black loafers, walking to a late lunch. The shine of the skirt is balanced by the matte knit.
Dress it down on purpose
The slip skirt wants a little contrast. A chunky sweater, a leather jacket or a denim shirt keeps it from becoming too precious. Boots and sneakers work as well as heels. In our fashion dreams she wears a cream slip skirt with a fisherman sweater and a pair of worn boots, and the whole thing looks like it came together by accident. Add a small gold hoop and a silk scarf, and you have an outfit for almost any evening.
What I would skip
I would skip a satin skirt that is too shiny, since it can look like costume. I would skip lace-trimmed versions if you want to wear it all day, because the lace reads as lingerie. And I would skip thin elastic waistbands that dig into the stomach. Steam the skirt rather than iron it, and hang it up so it keeps its drape.
