The Villa Wardrobe

The Villa Wardrobe

No lobby, no dress code and usually a kitchen. Eight long dresses, eight linen separates and the flat sandals that survive a stone terrace.

A villa is not a hotel, and the wardrobe follows from that. There is no lobby to walk through, no restaurant dress code, and usually a kitchen. Days run long and shapeless, meals happen where they happen, and nobody changes for dinner so much as adds something. The clothes that work are the ones that cover the whole day without a costume change in the middle.

The long dress is the core of it. One garment, no decisions, works barefoot at eleven in the morning and with a sandal at nine at night. The eight here run $295 to $598.

Ay Que Calor's Paloma is mesh and the lightest thing in the grid. By Malene Birger and Onia use cotton blend and linen tencel, which are the two fabrics that cope with heat without looking creased by lunch. Baobab and Significant Other handle print and draped jersey. STAUD's ruffled Margi and Third Form's strapless jersey are the dressier options, and Mac Duggal's embroidered gown at $598 is the outlier for a single formal night.

Linen earns its reputation and also oversells it. It is the most breathable common fabric, it dries fast, and it gets better with washing. It also creases within an hour of sitting down, which is only a problem if you expected otherwise. The right way to buy it is to accept the crease as the look rather than fight it.

What matters more is weight. Heavy linen holds a shape and hangs away from the body, which is the whole point in still air. Light linen clings when damp, which defeats the purpose entirely.

The eight pieces here run $125 to $325 and are deliberately separates rather than dresses, because separates are what a villa week actually needs. Onia, Favorite Daughter and With Nothing Underneath cover the shorts at $125 to $130. Deiji Studios, ELCE and Cala de la Cruz handle tops from $155 to $325. Posse's Emma maxi skirt and Sea's printed linen cotton midi are the two long pieces, both at $299 and $325, and both work with everything above them.

Flat sandals are the villa shoe because nothing about the setting calls for a heel. Stone floors, tiled steps and gravel drives all punish a thin sole, and the walk to the pool happens forty times a week.

Construction is what separates these. A moulded rubber sandal survives water and lasts a season. Stitched leather takes a week to soften and then lasts years, but it stains if it goes in the sea repeatedly. Both are legitimate, they are just different purchases.

The range here is $90 to $350. Tory Burch's Kira flip-flop at $90 and Christopher Esber's PVC flip-flop at $335 are the two ends of the same idea. Tressé's collaboration with Havaianas adds wood beading to a rubber base at $245, which is the most practical shoe in the grid. rag & bone, STAUD and Bembien cover leather thongs and woven leather between $228 and $280. La Canadienne's crisscross at $350 is the most structured, and a emery's Flora at $230 is the plainest.

Our honest take

The villa wardrobe fails when people pack for a restaurant holiday they are not taking. Two long dresses, four linen separates and two pairs of flat sandals will cover a week better than a suitcase of outfits, and the laundry situation is usually better than in a hotel.

Buy the linen in the heavier weight even though the lighter one feels nicer in the shop. Heavy linen is the one that still looks deliberate on day five.

On shoes, take one pair that can get wet and one that cannot. The rubber and PVC options here are not a compromise, they are the correct tool for a stone terrace and a chlorinated pool.

If you take one thing away, buy separates rather than a fifth dress.