Why Curls Get Thirsty, and the Leave In Conditioner for Curly Hair I Reach For

Why Curls Get Thirsty, and the Leave In Conditioner for Curly Hair I Reach For

Curls run dry because of their shape, and a good leave in conditioner for curly hair is the step that answers it. Here are the leave-ins and creams I trust, the stylers to layer over them, and the gels and towels that finish the job.

There is a simple reason curls get dry. One major beauty brand explains it well: because of the spiral shape, scalp oils have a harder time traveling down the strand. Straight hair gets a free conditioning treatment from the scalp. Curly hair does not, which means moisture has to come from a bottle, and a leave in conditioner for curly hair is the easiest place to add it.

Curly hair has been sorted, named and argued about for decades. The Andre Walker Hair Typing System came out of the 1990s, created by the stylist who worked with Oprah Winfrey, and it split hair into four categories: straight, wavy, curly and coily, with subcategories added later. Then in 2001, Lorraine Massey's book Curly Girl: The Handbook gave a whole generation a method and a language. I like both, but I like a good leave-in more than either.

Pattern Beauty's Leave-In Conditioner for Curls and Coils is the one I would start with if your hair is tightly coiled. Briogeo's Curl Charisma Rice Amino and Avocado Leave-In Defining Cream is slightly softer, made to leave curls defined. Kérastase's Curl Manifesto Hydrating Leave-In Cream is the salon-shelf pick, and Ouidad's Moisture Lock Hydrating Leave-in is the one I recommend to friends new to curls.

L'Oréal Professionnel's Curl Expression Moisturizing Leave-In Cream is smooth and easy to spread, and UNITE's BOING Curl Detangling Leave-In is the bouncy, comb-friendly one, best for a rushed morning. Comb it through in the shower, and the tangles come out with far less pulling.

Collage of leave-in creams, curl-defining styling creams, curl gels and a microfiber towel and a mood photo of fingers working through dark curls.
Leave-ins for curls and coils, styling creams to layer over them, and gels plus a microfiber towel.

Creams to layer over the leave-in

A leave-in is the base layer, and a cream is what goes on top. I think of it as a sweater over a shirt: one keeps you comfortable, the other keeps everything in place. Apply the cream while the hair is still soaking wet and the whole thing will dry with far less frizz.

dae's Cactus Fruit 3-in-1 Styling Cream is a good middle option, a styling cream that does a few jobs at once. Fenty Beauty's The Homecurl Curl-Defining Styling Cream is the one I would choose if I wanted definition. Moroccanoil's Curl Defining Cream with Argan Oil is softer and has a richer feel through the ends.

Olaplex's No. 6 Bond Smoother Frizz Control Styling Hair Cream is the smoother, the one for humid days when curls want to puff up. JVN's Complete Hydrating Air Dry Hair Styling Cream is easy to like, since it is made for air drying, which suits anyone who skips the diffuser. Gisou's Honey Milk 5-in-1 Styling Cream is the 5-in-1 option, and the one I would try on looser waves.

The test: after a cream, squeeze a curl gently in your palm. It should feel slick and springy, not tacky or crunchy. If it feels sticky, you used too much, and half the amount next time will fix it.

Gels, and a gentler towel

Gel is what keeps curls in the shape you give them, and it is the step people are most nervous about. Do not be. The crunch is the point, because you scrunch it out once the hair is fully dry and you are left with soft, defined curls that stay put.

Crown Affair's The Flexible Hold Finishing Hair Gel is the gentlest, meant for a softer hold that still looks natural. Bounce Curl's Chia Seed Clumping Gel is exactly what the name says, made to bring curls together in neat ringlets. Pattern Beauty's Palo Santo Curl Gel Creme is a hybrid of gel and cream, good for tighter textures that like moisture and hold in the same step. adwoa beauty's Baomint Moisturizing Curl Defining Gel is the moisturizing one, for curls that want definition without drying out.

The unexpected favorite here is Act+Acre's Microfiber Hair Towel. Rubbing with a regular towel can add frizz. A microfiber one lets you press and scrunch rather than scrub.

What I would skip: raking a comb through dry curls, and touching your hair while it dries. Every touch breaks up the clumps you just worked to make. Set it, walk away and let it dry, and only scrunch out the gel once your hair is completely dry.

A wash-day order I keep repeating

The order I keep repeating is easy to remember: wet hair, leave-in, cream, gel, then leave it alone. Work in sections, and rake the products through with your fingers or a wide comb while the hair is dripping wet.

Use a diffuser on low heat or let curls air dry, wrapped in a microfiber towel for a few minutes to catch drips. Wash days will vary, and so will the weather, so change the amounts with the season. More water in the summer, more cream in the winter. Once your curls feel soft, bouncy and springy, you have found your ratio, and it is worth writing down.

A last note on the scalp. Curl products belong on the hair, so keep them a finger's width from the roots, and clarify with a gentle wash when hair starts to feel coated or dull. If the scalp itches or flakes and it does not settle, that is a question for a dermatologist, not another cream. Otherwise, keep it easy, since curls respond best to a routine you can repeat without thinking.