Zegna began in 1910 as a wool mill. Ermenegildo Zegna founded Lanificio Zegna in Trivero, in Piedmont, Italy, and the company started as a maker of cloth before it was a maker of clothes. That is the thing I keep in mind when I look at the trousers and suits here, because the fabric is the point. He would reach first for the Tapered Herringbone Wool and Cashmere-Blend Trousers or the Tapered Wool and Cashmere-Blend Flannel Suit Trousers, which are the quiet workhorses of a good wardrobe. The Regular Fit Pleated Wool Pants and the Wool tapered pants are the plainer cuts. For weekends, the Roccia Slim-Fit Garment-Dyed Jeans and the Cotton Roccia Jeans, along with the two five-pocket straight leg pairs, keep things relaxed. The suits include the Merino Wool-Twill Suit, the Wool and mohair suit and the Trofeo Regular Fit Wool Suit and Trofeo Selection Wool Suit. Picture him on a Monday morning in the flannel trousers with a plain knit and no jacket at all. For another take on fall tailoring, wool trousers is a good companion read.

The vertical idea behind Zegna, from fleece to finished garment, is easiest to feel in the tops. The Cashseta Crewneck Sweater and the Men's Cashmere and Mulberry Silk Waffle Knit Polo Sweater are the soft layers, and the Cotton and cashmere shirt, the Cashco Cotton Blend Shirt and the Cashco Shirt are dressier options. For warmer days, the Woven Linen Polo Shirt and the Wool piqué polo shirt are polished enough to wear to a long lunch, and the Men's Cotton Jersey Crewneck T-Shirt is the plain one that goes under everything. A simple test for any knit is to pinch the sleeve and let go: the fabric should spring back without a crease. What I would skip is wearing the waffle knit polo sweater under a heavy overcoat, because the texture will bunch at the collar. For sweaters in general, a Ralph Lauren sweater guide shows other shapes worth knowing.

Shoes are where the house gets a little more casual. The Full-Grain Leather Loafers, the Suede loafers, the Suede Penny Loafers and the Men's Calfskin Penny Loafers cover every degree of formality, and they look just as good with trousers as with jeans. On the sneaker side, the 232 Leather-Trimmed Suede Sneakers, the Grained Calfskin 232 Sneakers, the Triple Stitch contrast-sole suede low-top trainers and the Men's Triple Stitch Osai Cashmere Low-Top Sneakers keep a clean line. A good rule is to match the shoe to the trouser break: a loafer wants a clean hem that just touches the shoe, and sneakers do better with a slimmer ankle. My notes on the polished penny loafer have more about that shape.

The accessories are the details that finish an outfit. The Aurora II flat-top sunglasses, the Round sunglasses, the Geometric Sunglasses, 51mm and the Men's Double-Bridge Titanium Aviator Sunglasses give you four different frame shapes to try. The Checked Brushed Cashmere Scarf and the Full-Grain Leather Gloves are for cold mornings, and the Men's Tonal Geometric Jacquard Silk Tie and the Rayon Belt round out a work outfit. For a look at checked scarves, there is a story behind the Burberry scarf that I like to read for context. Picture him on a platform at Milan Centrale in the scarf and gloves, collar up, sunglasses in his pocket. Keep the belt and tie in the same tone family as the shoes, and let the scarf be the one piece with pattern.

The last group is the biggest, and it has the most layers. The Oasi Belted Herringbone Cashmere Trench Coat takes its name from Oasi Zegna, the nature area in the Biellese Alps that the family established in 1993. For blazers, the Men's Crossover Wool-Cashmere Blazer, the Prince of Wales check cashmere blazer and the Men's Houndstooth Wool-Blend Jacket are the tailored choices, while the Wool, Cashmere & Silk Overshirt, the Twill Hooded Jacket and the Cashmere jacket are looser. The SECONDSKIN Suede Weekend Bag and the Secondskin Leather Perfume Case are for travel, and the Macro Geometric Print Wool Foulard, the Men's Micromodal Midi Briefs and the Swim trunks round out the rest. Choose an overshirt if you like to layer over a tee, and a blazer if you want something sharper. For ideas on suede and fall jackets, the fall jacket edit is worth a look.

I would start with one pair of wool and cashmere-blend trousers, a Cashseta sweater and a pair of suede loafers. Since Alessandro Sartori became artistic director in June 2016, the house has kept that focus on fabric, and the group, listed on the NYSE and led by the Zegna family from Milan, acquired 85% of Thom Browne in 2018. From wool mill to global house, the thread is still the cloth.

To round out the look, see John Lobb Shoes and Loafers and Relaxed Tailoring.