Ribbed cotton jersey is the house fabric and it behaves nothing like a flat jersey. The rib gives vertical structure, which is why a fitted Celine t shirt holds a line across the chest instead of clinging. The cuts here run from a close rib through a mock neck to a genuinely oversized boxy shape, which covers both ends of how people wear a tee now. Slimane brought the silhouette from his Saint Laurent and Dior Homme work, where the narrow shoulder and high armhole were the whole signature. The Triomphe clasp, adapted from the Arc de Triomphe chains, is the only branding the house allows itself on a tee.

The knits extend the same cut into heavier weights. A long-sleeved rib is the most useful piece here, doing the job of a light sweater without the bulk at the shoulder. Cotton fleece in a loose sweatshirt is the opposite instinct, deliberately roomy in a range that is otherwise cut close. Fine wool and cashmere sit at the top and are where the actual quality argument lives, since a knit cannot hide a poor yarn. The range is unusually small, which is a house decision rather than an oversight.

A plain t shirt at this level is a fabric and fit purchase and nothing else, so judge it on those two things only. The ribbed jersey is genuinely excellent and holds its shape through far more washes than a flat jersey will. The fit is narrow and unforgiving through the shoulder, which is the point and also why you should try before buying. The oversized cut is the more current shape and the ribbed fitted one is the more durable buy. If you want the house signature, take the rib, and wash it cold and inside out.