Maison Margiela was founded in Paris in 1988 by the Belgian designer Martin Margiela and his business partner Jenny Meirens, and from the start it behaved differently from other houses. The labels are blank white rectangles held on with four white stitches. Everyone at the house wears a white lab coat, the blouse blanche, as an equalizer regardless of title, and the models' faces are often obscured by fabric, masks or long hair so you look at the clothes. The Tabi split-toe boot was shown for the first time in 1988 to 1989, inspired by Japanese tabi socks, and it is still the signature, so the first group is mostly Tabi. The Tabi leather heeled knee-high boots, the Tabi split-toe leather boots and the Tabi split-toe ankle boots are the boots, and the Tabi ballerina flats come in leather, satin and a gray crackle flower print. The Tabi babouche flat is the slipper version. Beyond the split toe, the heel-less pumps H100 and the Plexi wedge 80 knee boots are a more sculptural idea. The leather Replica sneakers and the Sprinters suede low-tops are the casual ones. If you are curious about ballet flats in general, see this ballet flat edit, and for sneakers there is a worn-in retro runner piece.

Margiela turned the basics into puzzles, and the second group is full of quiet ones. The Four Stitches skirt echoes the four white stitches that hold the label, and I like that the discreet logo is part of the story. The stretch-jersey midi skirt, the long A-line skirt and the herringbone-pattern virgin wool skirt are the easy tailored pieces, while the textured paisley maxi skirt is the more decorative one. The faded wide-leg jeans, the blue treated denim jeans and the 5-pocket straight-leg denim ankle pants are the denim options. A tabi flat with a straight jean that just grazes the ankle is the cleanest way to show off the split toe. What I would skip is pairing the faded wide-leg jeans with a chunky boot, because the hem will hide the shape of the shoe. The house rarely announces itself, so I would keep the rest of the outfit very simple. If you want ideas for how to style a skirt for the season, fall skirts is a good place to look.

The tops in the third group keep the same quiet, odd energy. The patch twisted top and the printed stretch-jersey bodysuit are the ones with the most visible construction, and the micro-paisley drawstring shirt, the pleated button-front top and the tuxedo shirt are the dressier ones. The off-white fusion T-shirt is the plain piece, though nothing in this house is quite plain. The cropped virgin wool sweater vest and the draped collar wool polo sweater are the knitwear pair. Glenn Martens became creative director in January 2025, following John Galliano, who led the house from 2014 to 2024, while Martin Margiela himself left in 2009. I would wear the tuxedo shirt with the Four Stitches skirt and let the shirt stay crisp.

The fourth group is where the house is at its most architectural. The Bianchetto draped painted plisse gown is the most theatrical, and the jacquard cowl-neck midi dress, the herringbone virgin wool midi dress and the denim long-sleeve A-line midi dress are the ones for daily wear. The patch jersey maxi dress has the pieced-together feel the label is known for. Coats include the long-sleeve buttoned coat, the quilted shell coat and the cocooning oversized windowpane check coat, which is the roomiest and the best layer for the colder season. Picture her crossing a rainy Paris street in the windowpane coat, with only a blank white label to give the house away.

The REPLICA line began in 1994 and reproduces garments hand-picked from around the world, each with a label describing the source and period. That idea of a memory captured is what the fragrances in this group are built around. The Replica Jazz Club eau de toilette with tobacco leaf and rum is the smoky one, and the Lazy Sunday Morning with white musk and iris is the soft one. Afternoon Delight, Up at Dawn and On a Date round out the set. For more of the first kind, see the boozy gourmand perfumes, and for the second, the creamy white floral. The accessories are fun too: the four-stitch leather document holder, the high-rise tights, the Piped 85 leather courts and the Replica candle holder. Bags come in the mini soft 5AC, the Link small shoulder bag and the East West medium distressed leather shoulder bag.

I would wear one Tabi piece and keep everything else plain, which is exactly how the house wants it. A white shirt, a straight jean and a split toe is a complete outfit. The Margiela idea is that the clothes do the talking, and nothing needs to be louder than a blank white label. If a fragrance or a small bag is all you add, that is still a very Margiela way to begin.

To round out the look, see Ramy Brook Jeans and Blazers and Ottolinger Jeans and Tops.