Designers
Designers
Ferragamo Spring 2027: The Joy of Photography or the Joy of Loving
Maximilian Davis starts from Salvatore Ferragamo's 1947 Invisible Sandal and ends up in the 1940s waistline, with a belt at the waist in most looks. It is a collection about light, exposure and the pleasure of cinching in.
Etro Spring 2027: Etro with the Volume Turned Down
The collection is called Halo, an aura of paisleys and fabrics floating around the woman. Maxi lengths show up in nearly half the looks, softening the house codes without losing them.
Erdem Spring 2027: It Was Always About a Duality
Erdem's spring collection is a love letter to Barbette, the trapeze performer who dazzled audiences in the 1920s and 1930s. Sparkling underwear meets masculine layers, with socks in about a third of the looks.
Emporio Armani Spring 2027: Traces of Time
Emporio Armani closes one chapter with a presentation that sweeps from white to black through green, gray and greige. Nearly every look had trousers, and the clothes seem more interested in accruing time than losing it.
Diesel Spring 2027: Going Out with a Bang
Glenn Martens closed his six years at Diesel with a collection of peeling, shredding and coated denim. More than a third of the looks were denim, and the whole thing felt like a love letter with a wink.
Brunello Cucinelli Spring 2027: Making Virtuosity Disappear
Brunello Cucinelli's Spring 2027 collection hides serious technique behind clothes that look like they fell into place. Raffia, crochet and denim get the careful treatment, and about half the looks carry a bag.
Courrèges Spring 2027: What the Softer Side Could Be
Drew Henry makes his Courrèges debut just weeks into the job, with undone belts, odd hats and chalky pastels. Trousers appear in most looks, and the mood is warmer than the house is used to.
Roberto Cavalli Spring 2027: Milan Is Partying Again
Fausto Puglisi goes all-in on Cavalli nostalgia, spiking the house prints with a clubby edge. Animal print appears in most looks in a collection built for good times.
Magda Butrym Spring 2027: Airiness and Self-Possession
Magda Butrym celebrated her new SoHo store with a collection about lightness, built around the apron and her grandmother's kitchen. About half the looks carried a bag, and translucent silk did most of the talking.
Brandon Maxwell Spring 2027: The Word Honest Is What Comes to Mind
Brandon Maxwell returned to the runway after a season away with a collection of black, white, red, khaki, and gray, and not a single print. Trousers and belts showed up in more than half the looks.
Blumarine Spring 2027: She Goes to California, Dates a Surfer
David Koma sent the Blumarine girl out of the shadows and into the Californian sun for spring 2027. Tulle and ruffles ran through more than a third of the looks, and not a single look carried a bag.
Balmain Spring 2027: Mankind Was Not Inventing Shapes
Antonin Tron sends Balmain into the American desert with a nod to Foucault and a stone collector's eye for natural form. Sunglasses appear in the large majority of looks, and the clothes are sexy, loose and a little trippy.
The Attico Spring 2027: A Wardrobe of Personalities
For ten years of The Attico, the designers staged their show on beds in a dark tunnel and sent out a procession of alter egos. More than a third of the looks carried a bag, and the point was never one silhouette.
Altuzarra Spring 2027: What Was Once Hidden Becomes Visible
Joseph Altuzarra built his spring collection on the joy he found in a book of mid-century photographs, pairing biker jackets with delicate embellished layers. Black brogues showed up in most looks, a detail that keeps the whole thing grounded.
Alice + Olivia Spring 2027: The Season of the Dress
Stacey Bendet took Alice + Olivia down the rabbit hole with an Alice in Wonderland collection built with the help of AI. Floral showed up in more than a third of the looks, and she called it the season of the dress.
Bottega Veneta Spring 2027: De-Robing Into Spring
Louise Trotter's third Bottega Veneta show was about taking layers off as winter turns to spring. Three in four looks carried a bag, and the coats came first.
Prada Spring 2027: Skirts for People Who Think a Lot About Their Skirts
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons gave an entire collection to the skirt, and nine in ten looks wore one. This is how the skirts were built, what went on top and how to wear the idea.
Marc Jacobs Spring 2027: A Short, Sharp Shock
Marc Jacobs showed 31 looks in four minutes, with no finale and almost no pants. Colored tights were on almost every look, and the opening run was all see-through vinyl.
Tom Ford Spring 2027: Sexual, Louche, a Little Bit Dangerous
Haider Ackermann's Tom Ford show played out in near darkness behind glass, with sharp pinstripes, black leather, red cut-out gowns and barely-there swimwear. More than half the looks had a jacket, blazer or coat.
Stella McCartney Spring 2027: Daryl Hannah in Splash
Stella McCartney showed her greatest hits in the rain at the British Ambassador's residence in Paris, with loose tailoring, coral-like knits and a denim jacket over basketball shorts. The pastel pieces bring a few mermaid notes.
Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2027: Stravaganza Siciliana
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana rejected the matching tank tops and cutoffs everyone wears for a mix of lace, tweed, leopard and their own archive. More than half the looks had lace, crochet or eyelet.
Burberry Spring 2027: I Like When Things Don't Feel Perfect
Daniel Lee and Celia Birtwell made Burberry's spring collection together, scattering her florals across the check. Four in five looks wore a jacket, coat or trench, and the shoes were the surprise.
Jacquemus Spring 2027: Le Bonheur
Simon Porte Jacquemus took 155 guests to a Corsican lighthouse for a show about happiness. A little over a third of the looks were all white, and not one look had a visible heel.
Michael Kors Spring 2027: A Mod, Mod World
Michael Kors showed a modernist collection in the MoMA Sculpture Garden, with zig-zag hems, Calder and Matisse references and white go-go boots. The accessories did a lot of the talking.